The Testpiece Podcast

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent) Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?) The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute Limit FOMO of All The Good Te...

Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up). On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and...

Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast! Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley . Some topics covered in this episode are: Board Lords episodes 6 and 7  Rec...

Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod!  Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world. Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler’s Instagram Benn Wheel...

Good Temps is back!  This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: Brooke Rabatou’s FFA of Excalibur (15c) Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11) Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about...

Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering. Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s motto is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing sho...

Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord’ series on their YouTube Channel. Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2. Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards. This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING ! The best crash pads in the game, own...

Jonathan Siegrist , aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor . This wasn’t his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line. Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares...

Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps’ podcast! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi , Will Anglin , Austin Hoyt , and Joshua Horsley . SHOW NOTES: Carlo’s Instagram Will’s Instagram Austin’s Instagram Josh’s Instagram The Dark Side Movie Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instag...

Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked , on his first session! Yes, that’s right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours. Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it’s a pleasure to get to peer...

You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!). This episode was ‘snipped’ from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Podcast [Part 1] with Dave Dave MacLeod’s Instagram...

You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod . This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme’s in his latest book, Moving The Needle . THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING ! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads. SHOW NOTES: Dave MacLeod’s Instagram Dave MacLeod’s YouTube Channel Moving The Needle, Dave’s Latest Book Organi...

Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock , and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy’s under his belt! Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘bad...

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau. THIS EPISODE IS SUPP...

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished.  Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing...

Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it...

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock. SHOW NOTES: Tyler’s...

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: Beastmaker Beastmaking Foxy...

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE...

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished.  Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18.  We hope you enjoy this peek into w...

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS...

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this d...

Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually...

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his year...

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished.  We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast pa...