Testpiece

The Testpiece Podcast

Sports EN ↓ 219 episodes

A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great. Hosted by Joshua Horsley.

Author

Testpiece

Episodes

#181 Tim, My Dude — Chasing Mastery, The Challenge You Actually Want, V14 Highball FA, and Tim’s Approach To Coaching 12.01.2026 1:52:51

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode! Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time , a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it...

Board Talk #7 — New MoonBoard?!, Quantum Board, BL#9, and What’s Coming In 2026 with Benn Wheeler and Risotto Rhomboids 05.01.2026 1:37:36

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Bo...

[REDUX] Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro 29.12.2025 1:51:41

This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back. We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next...

#180 ‘Anti-Mega’ — GP81’s Julian Acevedo and Zoe Sayetta On Building Elite Training Facilities For All Ages 22.12.2025 1:33:51

Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community. GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades...

Good Temps #8 — Ondra Flashes V15, The Future Of Climbing Holds, Granite Addicts, and The Ethics Of Flashing 15.12.2025 1:10:06

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk. Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits...

#179 Annie Sanders — 1st US Woman To Win Bouldering And Lead WC’s, Comp Style Vs Her Style, and Where To Focus While Competing 08.12.2025 44:46

Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started! Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why? How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing? Which round has the h...

Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries? 01.12.2025 1:22:20

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. Board Climbs Mentioned: “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the...

Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?! 26.11.2025 46:50

BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’. ‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy! This is a recurring...

#178 Ollie Torr — Olympians Train Like This, How Climbing Technique Actually Progresses, The Future Of Video Analysis, and What Lattice Is Doing With The Best Data Set In Climbing 24.11.2025 1:51:04

Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last deca...

Good Temps #7 — Arrival Of The Birds [V17] By Sean, Janja Climbs Everything, Current State Of The Gym Industry, and Ethical Limits Of Climbing Equipment 17.11.2025 1:31:28

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a...

#177 Tyler Willcutt — The ‘X’ Factor, Agent For The Best Of The Best, Where Pro’s Make The Most Money, and How The Climbing Industry Compares To Others 10.11.2025 1:29:47

Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports , an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitaliz...

Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards 03.11.2025 1:36:39

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Med...

#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard 27.10.2025 1:09:57

Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with ans...

Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment 20.10.2025 1:57:30

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope? When do you work on your weaknesses v...

#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America 13.10.2025 1:34:52

Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level. Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is al...

Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102 06.10.2025 1:21:56

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned: "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag "Moon Spawn&quot...

#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100 29.09.2025 1:35:30

Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts. Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with ans...

Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money 22.09.2025 1:47:02

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and Bishop Does a rest hurt the quality of a b...

#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa 15.09.2025 1:27:24

The legend himself, Chris Sharma. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge 08.09.2025 1:24:11

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 'Classics' mentioned: "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45° "Clinical" - 7B/...

#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach 01.09.2025 1:43:13

Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16). Here's where you can find Jesse online: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/ Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/ Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram:...

Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game” 25.08.2025 1:29:17

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche 18.08.2025 1:42:34

Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’ 11.08.2025 2:02:21

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING ! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated...

#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement 04.08.2025 1:55:33

Ravioli Biceps ! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovati...