Testpiece
The Testpiece Podcast
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great. Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Author
Testpiece
Category
Podcast website
Latest episode
Jul 6, 2026
Where to listen?
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Episodes
#193 Hazel Findlay — How To Try Hard, Flow Vs. Clutch, and The Psychology Of Execution 06.07.2026 1:27:42
You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing - How Hazel balance...
Board Talk #13 with Brian Squire — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, How To Keep Your Feet On, and Why V13 Should Be The Hardest Board Grade 29.06.2026 1:14:14
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The hardest move ever on the...
#192 Matt Samet — 39 Years Of Climbing, The Great Debate, and The Lesser Known History Of Our Sport 22.06.2026 1:15:44
Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?). In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing. *Patreon Bonus Content (join h ttps://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut ):* - The...
Good Temps #14 with Allison Vest — Janja Sends Bibliographie 5.15c, Katie Lamb FA’s V15, and Should Pro Climbers Have To Publicize Their Sends? 15.06.2026 1:39:34
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - What makes Sorato Anraku so strong? - Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best b...
#191 Lincoln Knowles — Soloing Choss, What Happens When Your Bubble Bursts, and The Mentality Of A Free Soloist 08.06.2026 1:25:32
You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist. Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as...
Board Talk #12 — The TB2 Expansion, The World’s Best Board Climber, and The Case For Full Crimping with Ben Burkhalter and Michael Rosato 01.06.2026 1:41:22
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Ben Burkhalter, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): What happened to...
Noah Wheeler & Michael Rosato — Finland 2025 Trip Report, Burden Of Dreams and The Sisu Project 25.05.2026 58:43
This episode originally aired as a Patreon exclusive on December 6, 2025. After a battle with conditions, injuries, and a heartbreaking dab, Noah Wheeler just sent Burden Of Dreams V17/9A. This week we revisit his first trip to Finland with Hamish McArthur, and Tension Climbing's Michael Rosato, where they checked out Burden, and the infamous Sisu Project. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Inst...
#190 Ben Burkhalter — Building Your Pyramid, The Importance Of Sending, and The Problem With V17 18.05.2026 1:43:00
Ben Burkhalter sent nearly all his projects this season, and this week he tells us how he did it — and how you can too. In this episode we discuss the problem with high end grades, the importance of sending as many boulders as you can, and the strongest climber ever. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dissecting board grades The hardest board climbs ever SHOW NOTES: Chronic by...
Good Temps #13 — Climbing Rubber For Your Big Toe, Zach Galla Sends Another V17, and The Massive TB2 Expansion 11.05.2026 1:20:51
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Link to the 'Yubisac': https://www.instagram.com/p/DXsnAs0kywT/?img_index=3&igsh=dG5vaWN3aXZxYThx Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cu...
#189 Adam Ondra — The Appeal Of Difficulty, Transferring Board Training to Rock, and Flashing 8C+/V16? 04.05.2026 1:24:25
Adam Ondra is the world’s best climber. In 2017 he made the first ascent of the world’s first 9c / 5.15d, in 2025 he climbed Soudain Seul V17, and in the past few months he’s flashed 4 V15s. This week he joins us to discuss his recent bouldering spree, his future plans, and what it takes to push climbing’s limits. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Why Adam likes boldness and a...
Board Talk #11 — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, The Belay Board, and The Kilter Situation 27.04.2026 1:39:38
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended...
#188 Beckett Hsin — V17 At 16 Years Old, Following Your Psych, and The Ultimate Proj (Getting A Driver’s License) 20.04.2026 1:07:44
16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade. In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Beckett’s experience with Ly...
Good Temps #12 — Another 9c, A Barefoot Send, and Grandpa Peabody's Newest Line 13.04.2026 1:27:36
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder? The politics and ethics of bolting a route Join Patreon:...
#187 Sean Bailey — America’s Hardest Climb, Building The Perfect Gym, and Searching For Something Even Harder 06.04.2026 1:14:42
After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod. In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is V17 or 5.15d harder? Is Duality Of Man chipped? Will Sean ever compete again? Why has no one repeated any of the propo...
Board Talk #10 with Sam Prior — The 2026 MoonSpray, Board Grades, and Are Board Climbers Bad Rock Climbers? 30.03.2026 1:49:48
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds How is Ben Moon still so strong at near...
#186 Tyler Nelson — Building Strong Shoulders, Doing The Right Amount Of Work, and The Problem With Prehab 23.03.2026 1:49:09
One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back! Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength? Do pressing exercises really “even...
Good Temps #11 — 16 Year Old Sends V17, Ondra Flashes 2 V15s In A Week, and The Future Of Comp Climbing 16.03.2026 1:14:53
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits The history and future of rubber tech...
#185 Dan Yagmin — The Art Of Hold Shaping, Designing The Decoy Board, and Knowing When To Quit 09.03.2026 1:37:55
Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit The look of...
Wheel Rock Board Talk #9 With Noah AND Benn Wheeler — Adam Ondra Destroys the TB2, The Most Controversial V15, and Setting For Lord Boards 02.03.2026 1:01:21
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury What are the defining chara...
#184 Connor Herson — The World’s Hardest (And Best?) Trad Climb, Proposing A New Grade, and Headlining The Mellow Tour 23.02.2026 1:12:33
Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear. He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of impro...
Good Temps #10 — The World’s New Hardest Climb, 5.15 Trad, Sweet Yosemite Granite, and Is Climbing a Sport? 16.02.2026 1:23:35
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing? More crazy skincare techniques from Will...
#183 Adam Shahar – The World’s Hardest Move, A Year of Improvement, and Is ROTSW Really V17? 09.02.2026 1:11:12
Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker . He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast Other...
Board Talk #8 — The Most Brutal Board, 8B’s On Different Boards, TB2 Mirror vs Spray, ROQ Talk, and Gamification Of Boards 02.02.2026 1:37:46
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Gamification...
#182 Melina Costanza — A Fairy Tale Ending, 3rd Place World Championship Debut, The Underdog, Stronger After A Major Injury, and Her Outdoor Era Begins 26.01.2026 1:44:18
Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible. She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship wh...
Good Temps #9 — Live Streaming Free Soloing, Everyone Does V17 In RR, Wet Rock Common Sense, and 2025’s Winners / Losers / ’26 Predictions 19.01.2026 1:18:48
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and c...
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