The Climbing Injury Podcast

Today’s chat revolves around tenosynovitis. We’ve discussed this topic previously, but as Stian once again has suffered through a condition for the sake of good podcast content, we had the opportunity to discuss this condition through a different lens.  For more information about us, you can find us on Instagram and our websites: James: @sheffieldclimbingclinic / www.sheffieldclimbingclinic.com St...

We live in a technological age where data is ubiquitous and often dominates our decision making, but how much value does it actually add in terms of helping us understand injuries and guide rehabilitation and performance on and off the wall? We have a multitude of tests available at our chalky fingertips, but do they always add value? Does testing sometimes become overkill?  For more information a...

In today's episode we're joined by physiotherapist Uzo Ehiogu. Uzo has a deep passion for S&C and rehabilitation back to sport in general - and, luckily for us, return to climbing in particular. You can read more about Uzo here:  https://www.integratedclinicalsandc.com/about We wanted to talk to Uzo about his journey as a physio and a climber, his previous and current research and hi...

Wouldn’t it be good to get that niggle properly checked out? To look inside and get the clear cut answer to all of your problems? Well, sometimes it’s absolutely necessary, many a times it doesn’t really give you that answer and sometimes it could do more harm than not to get told what your insides look like.  With the option to do ultrasound scans, MRI’s, X-ray’s and CT-scans it’s important to be...

Today James, Paul and Stian discusses fingerboarding and fingerboards under the light of injury risk and injury prevention. What are the potential risks with fingerboarding, how can we mitigate them and do the potential gains outweigh the potential downsides?  For more information about us, you can find us on Instagram and our websites: James: @sheffieldclimbingclinic / www.sheffieldclimbingclinic...

Today we mark the start of a new chapter for The Climbing Injury Podcast. Serendipity made it so that our friend and colleague Huffy joined as a co-host of the show, which obviously will make the show even better.  To kick things off we started with a sort of "study group approach" and simply discussed some thoughts we all had on finger niggles and their correlations to board climbing. ...

In today's episode we had the pleasure of talking to Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. Mina's an accomplished climber, both on rocks and in competitions and works as a coach and nutritionist. She has written the book Eat To Climb, which came out earlier this fall, and where our previous episode on nutrition was a bit more on the technical side, Mina guides us through both principles and methods on h...

A question we get asked a lot by injured climbers, is wether nutrition can help speed ut their recovery. And, if so, can it also help them not to get injured again? As these questions are a bit out of our scope of practice, we've invited nutritionist and climber Ed Gibson-Smith on the show to help answer these questions and more.  We discuss nutrition in a broader sense, as in if you have eno...

As clinician we see a lot of climbers with shoulder complaints, both on the recreational and elite level. Together with renowned physiotherapist Paul Houghoghi - aka The Climbing Physio - we explore the rise of shoulder complaints and injuries in climbing and how we go about trying to both prevent and rehabilitate them. It was a very interesting discussion, where we all could get our geeks on as w...

In episode 4 of The Climbing Injury Podcast we discussed different conditions concerning the elbow which you might encounter as a climber. In this episode we brought on board Dr Tyler Nelson, a climber, chiropractor and S&C coach from USA, to dive even deeper into elbow issues and climbing. Tyler is a well known figure from social media, where he runs the platform C4HP. His instagram and YouTu...

In today's episode, we're discussing wrist injuries and wrist related pain due to climbing. We often meet patients worried that they've injured their TFCC (more on this in the episode), which can be a serious injury. But this is quite rare, and there are other more common causes and sources to a climber's wrist pain than just the TFCC. This is also highlighted in a recent paper...

Today we’re discussing hamstring injuries.  We frequently see injuries to the hamstring muscles and tendons due to heel hooks and splits, and whilst hamstring injuries have gotten a lot of attention in other sports, like soccer, sprint and dancing, there’s a paucity of literature covering this injury in climbers. Since climbing differs from these sports, the injury mechanisms, rehabilitation and e...

As climbing's increasing popularity attracts more and more people to the sport, it also attracts more and more young climbers. This is of course positive, but also makes for an understanding of the more specific injuries that youth climbers are exposed to. In this episode we'll discuss how and when the growing skeleton matures, and why this is important knowledge for everyone involved in...

Although less common than finger and shoulder injuries, we see a fair bit of painful elbows in climbers. Today, we discuss elbow pain on the inside (medial), outside (lateral) and front (anterior) of the elbow. What's actually going on here? How do these develop into painful conditions? And, of course, how can we manage them? References: -       van Middelkoop M, Bruens ML, Coert JH, Selles R...

After two long episodes on pulley injuries, we wanted to discuss the somewhat lesser known finger injuries. These include flexor tendon tenosynovitis, finger joint pain/synovitis, flexor tendon strains and lumbrical shift syndrome.  We discuss how to diagnose and manage these conditions both as health care professionals and as climbers. We also follow up on Stian's A4-rupture and how he has p...

In this episode we deep dive into how to rehabilitate pulley injuries. Since Stian managed to rupture his A4 pulley whilst bouldering in Fontainebleau, you'll get a real time insight into his rehabilitation process while we discuss the different approaches and concepts to best handle these injuries. Should we immobilize or load early? Should we climb or not? Which are the different ways of lo...

Welcome to the world premiere of the Climbing Injury Podcast.  In this episode we want to present ourselves and what this podcast is all about. We chat about how and why we started talking to begin with, Stian’s recent trip to Sheffield with Magnus Midtbø and Adam Ondra before we get our geek on and discuss pulley injuries. This episode is dedicated to what pulleys are, injury classification and d...