Hairspring

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen.  Cleguer: https:...

While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here.  University of Utah Hot on Journe?: https://shorturl.at/cSCXN 6538 at Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/e...

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today.  Links Mentioned:  Arkansas: https://crystalbridges.org 6105G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001 5170: https://hairspring.com/products/chr...

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the wa...

Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers...

Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider.  Links Mentioned:  Winners: Streamliner 34: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-intro...

Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only...

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conver...

This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on wa...

Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise.  Links Mentioned: ...

Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen i...

The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician.  Links Mentioned:  404.032: https...

It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s t...

Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this...

The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable r...

Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Co...

Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more.  Links Mentioned: Hajime Asaoka: https://ww...

A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points...

Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and wh...

This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong.  Links Mentioned: Berneron: https://hairspring.com/collec...

We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen provenance, this week is all those small stories...

This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate...

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor.  Links Mentioned: Modern 2 Wa...

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of...

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and...