Hairspring

A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points...

Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and wh...

This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong.  Links Mentioned: Berneron: https://hairspring.com/collec...

We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen provenance, this week is all those small stories...

This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate...

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor.  Links Mentioned: Modern 2 Wa...

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of...

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and...

Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple.  Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/excl...

This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, the car/watch enthusiast link, the 6541 motorspo...

What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardles...

Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austin, looking for a watch to give his son.  Links...

Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2. Li...

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom.  Links Mentioned: Lange Error: https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8S...

The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what a...

This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets to the brand’s identity, many quotes,...

In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned: Berneron: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-look-at-the-berneron-annual Chris Ward:  https:/...

Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet.  Links Mentioned: A3630: https://www...

While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist.  Links Mentioned: Questionable Cloche (last image): https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804 La...

This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said.  Links Mentioned: Pre-Daytona: 3346 Zerographe: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/36 4113 Split: https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1 4537: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph 5034:  https://www.phillips.com/de...

It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen.  Links Mentioned:...

Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear?  Links Mentioned: LUC XPS: https://www.hodinkee.c...

There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mon...

This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus,...

Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them.  Links...