Camp 4 Performance Podcast

In this video, we will use the Tindeq Progressor to measure finger strength in unique ways: "curling" and "Pulling." The "Curling" method will give us our "true" finger strength numbers as it most accurately reflects the muscles of the fingers in isolation. The "Pulling" method will reflect the fingers' total ability to resist. The force numbe...

In this episode, you will learn the simplest finger strength training methods and how to use the Tindeq Progressor, a force measuring device, to test and train the finger for stronger fingers, better climbing practice, and climbing performance. There are more ways to strengthen your fingers and reduce your risk of injury than just using a hangboard. Support the show Thank you for listening! Rememb...

Welcome special guest Paul 'Huffy' Houghoughi! In this episode Tyler, Paul, and Collin talk about wrist pain in climbers. They cover the most common findings and injuries, what to do about them for rehab, and how to train more thoughtfully to best reduce the risks associated with wrist pain, including the TFCC injury. Enjoy! To listen to an additional 50 minutes of this episode please fo...

Dr. Natasha Barnes has been climbing since 1999. Is a Touchstone Climbing Athlete . She is also a former National Bouldering Champion and Teva Games gold medalist (now GoPro Mountain Games/IFSC Vail World Cup).  She has bouldered multiple V10’s and V11’s and climbed 5.13d/14a outdoors. And has been featured in several climbing films , interviewed or featured in climbing magazines and podcasts , an...

Coach JFire and I talk about his new course: The Principles of Problem Solving. This is the summation of all of Jesse's coaching and experience over the years bundled into one amazing educational resource. The course is online, recorded, and can be taken at your own convenience! If you are catching this early and want to be a part of the Live sessions, they will be hosted Dec. 14th and 21st a...

In this exclusive Coach's Q&A from the C4HP Patreon we answer the burning questions that our members offer us each month. Included in those questions is the topic of endurance and Dr. Tyler Nelson has some new thoughts regarding better endurance training for climbing training. The team also dives into other questions regarding assessments and training plan organization. This 45 minute epi...

We are back! In this episode you'll catch the C4HP team discussing their recent training plans as they head into their climbing season, what they are doing differently this year as compared to last, and what they think climbers could do better to prepare to perform! The C4HP team has been busy developing and launching new projects: The Camp 4 Performance Certification - a Pass/Fail course des...

Meet our newest Camp 4 Coach, Coach Jesse Fire Stone! Coach J Fire brings well over a decade of climbing experience and passion to the team. His wisdom is derived from endless curiosity about climbing, technique, skill acquisition and improving your mindset to more efficiently better yourself as a climber. Coach Jesse is currently taking on new clients and filling quickly! Click the link below to...

In this episode the Camp 4 Team sits down to discuss common rock climbing injuries found in the shoulder, elbow, and fingers. Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about why these injuries happen and what is unique to each area of the body and injury. Finally, the team details what you as a climber need to know about climbing outside, or in a gym, to reduce your risk for injury and what to do for training as wel...

In this episode Dr. Tyler Nelson and Coach Collin McGee discuss the principles of creating a training plan for climbing for both on-the-wall activities and off. They discuss what should be done, seen, and felt in: Strength phases Power phases  Power Endurance Phases Endurance Phases Capacity Phases Performance phases Each of those sections has unique characteristics that need to be considered in o...

In this episode the Camp 4 team sits down to discuss in-season training. What should we be doing when the weather opens up for outdoor climbing? We should be doing:  Things that help translate our hard earned offseason strengths into climbing specific work Maintaining our force output through strategic exercise choice Managing fatigue week-to-week so that we can arrive to the crag FRESH! This is d...

The Camp 4 Team sits down to discuss the "WHY" behind flexibility and mobility for rock climbing. The team talks about stretching, strength training, sets, reps, but most importantly key principles to remember and include to get the most out of your training. Key principles like understanding that stretching and flexibility training for the sake of flexibility training is not meant for e...

 On this episode, Coach Gabe Olson shares his wisdom and expertise in climbing mindset, intention, and skills development. We talk about 5 things to consider when you are projecting a climb and how to improve your chances of success! Need help better understanding these concepts or clarifying what they mean for you specifically? Coach Gabe can work with you 1-1 to help you fine tune your climbing...

Dr. Tyler Nelson has been assessing finger strength for many years now. After some continuing education he recently went through a new light bulb flashed over his head. This light bulb leads to an addition on the Camp 4 Performance Assessment to identify the threshold of your muscle's peak recruitment. This is different from your maximal loadable weight that you can hang with on your fingers....

The whole team is here to talk about strength training. The goal is to give a clean and clear definition of strength training and the principles behind it to guarantee what you're doing is actually improving your strength. This can be done on and off the wall as long as the principles are met. The coaches also discuss what we can do as climbers and coaches to assess ourselves, or work with a...

Introducing the C4P Podcast!  The official podcast of Dr. Tyler Nelson and Camp 4 Human Performance. Get to know the coaches, mission, and direction of your new favorite thing to listen to as a rock climber! Make sure to follow the along with us on instagram to stay in touch and up-to-date with the latest in rock climbing training, rehabilitation and skills work. And keep an eye out for when we dr...