Inner Fire Climbing Podcast

Tyler Nelson is a chiropractic physician (DC), sports scientist (MS), Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), and the founder of C4HP. He is an expert at diagnosing climbing injuries and guiding climbers through rehabilitation grounded in sports science. On this episode, we do a no-stupid-questions AMA, talk everything finger training, and discuss some of the most common finger inju...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:42 - Greg - If I was to add 20 minutes or so of focused time to make myself better each time, what would you suggest? 0:07:21 - Kelly - How should I adjust my hangboard training on days when I am objectively weaker/extra fatigued? 0:11:00 - Jake - What exactly does define a solid triangle?...

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about current project on the Cube in the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, what it's like to prioritize learning over sending, and how to choose a climbing c...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:52 - Olga - Describe your perfect climbing partner for bouldering and ropes if there's a difference. 0:08:48 - Casey - What are all your Squamish microclimate tactical secrets? 0:15:40 - Foo - Is climbing training solved? 0:23:04 - Matthew - Do you feel that the ability to execute is more...

Hilary Sherman is scientist, climbing advocate, and local legend in the Northeast climbing scene.  Over a decade ago, she suffered a life changing injury while climbing. On today's episode, Hilary shares her story of resilience and her return to climbing at her peak form.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:02:50 - Cian - What makes a good guidebook? 0:09:05 - Daniel - Process for setting problems for oneself on a board 0:13:30 - Jantina - Thoughts on Janja's ascent of Bibliographie? 0:19:05 - Daniel - Best mobility exercises? 0:25:30 - Anthony - Would you move a boulder to make a problem harder...

Andy McVittie is a physiotherapist and climbing coach based in the UK. He is currently working towards building research-based guidelines for youth athletic development. On this episode, we talk about his personal climbing journey of over 30 years, what youth climbing needs right now, and pursuing fulfillment as a climber.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:41 - Anthony - Balancing outdoor climbing with training 0:07:40 - Rob - Pacing, breathing, and mantras 0:13:25 - Cian - How different grading systems affect peoples' conceptions of their climbing 0:18:33 - Jantina - How often to chalk up 0:22:10 - Steven - Finding partners 0:27:18 - Instag...

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, The Workshop. On this episode, we talk about route setting, comp climbing, paths to skill development, and much more. 

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session 0:05:05 Josh – Improving high step ability and hip mobility 0:09:50 Jantina – Utility of off-the-wall balance exercises 0:13:05 Sam – Responsibility in developing climbing areas 0:19:25 Foo – What is “good form”? 0:22:50 Cian...

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about her multi-pitch first ascent in Mexico, her strategies for hard projecting, her coaching focus, and much more.

Dr. Juliana Merighi is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist, and a Board Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. She offers a pelvic physical therapy and orthopedic physical therapy based in Golden, Colorado and remotely as well. On this episode of the podcast, we cover everything at the intersection of climbing, pregnancy, and pelvic floor health....

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:01:02 Anthony - Managing fatigue / autoregulation with self-coaching 00:05:49 Josh - Body recomp 00:09:08 Greg - How to progress on the Moonboard 00:11:55 Instagram - Questions about boulder development 00:17:08 Marcel - V10-12 compression demands analysis 00:25:36 Angel - Deadlift alternati...

Rocco Bocchicchio is one of the OG developers of Joe's Valley and has been climbing for 28 years. He has spent much of his climbing career on the road and is currently based near Joe's where he continues to develop boulders and also crafts handmade wooden climbing holds. In this episode, Rocco shares his wisdom on a huge range of topics, from personal ethics to the evolution of bouldering and agin...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:03:15 Cian - What do you think of the Pro Climbing League? 0:08:20 Sam - Ethics discussions on the podcast 0:10:40 Anthony - Why can outdoor climbing be more fun than indoor climbing? 0:15:12 Anthony - Yosemite for bouldering 0:16:00 Kyle - Falling at the end of a project 0:21:20 Rask - Train...

Hayley McKinney is a climber and YouTuber based out of Las Vegas. In this episode, we talk about her journey to overcome her fear of falling after a bad accident. We also talk about her new-found love of slab and scary climbing in general.

Eric Jerome is a highly accomplished boulderer and creator of the Top 100 project, an attempt to define and categorize the top 100 double digit boulders (and now single digit boulders!) in America.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:01:17 Freiherr - RPE in climbing 00:07:18 Jantina - Campusing for training 00:10:41 Cian - Staying process-oriented on indoor climbs 00:13:47 Sam - Navigating the razor's edge of try-hard and injury 00:18:47 Joe - How to prepare for Angelina Jolie V10 00:24:06 Foo - Thoughts on systems board...

Ryan Frecka is a strength and conditioning coach and multi-sport athlete based in Alberta, Canada. I have personally trained as a client of Ryan and consider him a friend. On today's podcast, we discuss Ryan's personal climbing journey, how to get the most out of a remote coach as a client, and the value of training plyometrics for climbing.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro and personal updates 00:03:00 Anthony - Balancing try-hard and being present 00:10:42 Anthony - Flagging techniques 00:14:15 Sam - Thoughts on "flashing" 00:19:25 Lorraine - Drills for power endurance 00:24:10 Joe - Predestination and free will 00:28:35 Joe - Heel-toe cams on ver...

Collin McGee is a coach with Camp 4 Human Performance and the Fitness Director at the Alliance Fitness Center in Reading, PA. Collin has coached a wide range of athletes in multiple sports and fitness disciplines. On today's podcast, we discuss the importance of strength training for climbers, which fitness trends are overrated and underrated for climbers, and the keys to building physical resilie...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro 00:00:52 Joshua - Session capacity for projecting 00:05:31 Jantina - Yoga for climbing 00:08:26 Foo - Climbing books 00:12:17 Foo - Business advice (lol. Run away, people. Run away) 00:15:55 Eric - Squat DOMS impacting performance 00:19:45 Simon - Zooming in on single hard moves...

Flo Tilley is a mindset coach with Lattice and has a Master's degree in Sport and Exercise Psychology. On today's episode we talk about flow, overcoming fear, and the power of self talk.

Michael Hauss is a friend and client of mine. Michael is a former D1 athlete and the founder of ROQ Climbing, a new kind of climbing gym coming to Seattle. On today's episode, we talk about modern climbing gyms, starting a business, and why group coaching might be the future of climbing.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro 00:00:42 Update on fatherhood 00:04:12 Simon - Practical resources on Stoicism 00:08:53 Rose - Exercises for hypermobile shoulders 00:14:07 Alexander - Utility of ARCing and 4x4s 00:17:27 Andrew - Hamstring rehab and heel hook training 00:22:08 Max 1 - Approach to projecting as a...