Inner Fire Climbing Podcast

Andy McVittie is a physiotherapist and climbing coach based in the UK. He is currently working towards building research-based guidelines for youth athletic development. On this episode, we talk about his personal climbing journey of over 30 years, what youth climbing needs right now, and pursuing fulfillment as a climber.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:41 - Anthony - Balancing outdoor climbing with training 0:07:40 - Rob - Pacing, breathing, and mantras 0:13:25 - Cian - How different grading systems affect peoples' conceptions of their climbing 0:18:33 - Jantina - How often to chalk up 0:22:10 - Steven - Finding partners 0:27:18 - Instag...

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, The Workshop. On this episode, we talk about route setting, comp climbing, paths to skill development, and much more. 

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session 0:05:05 Josh – Improving high step ability and hip mobility 0:09:50 Jantina – Utility of off-the-wall balance exercises 0:13:05 Sam – Responsibility in developing climbing areas 0:19:25 Foo – What is “good form”? 0:22:50 Cian...

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about her multi-pitch first ascent in Mexico, her strategies for hard projecting, her coaching focus, and much more.

Dr. Juliana Merighi is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist, and a Board Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. She offers a pelvic physical therapy and orthopedic physical therapy based in Golden, Colorado and remotely as well. On this episode of the podcast, we cover everything at the intersection of climbing, pregnancy, and pelvic floor health....

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:01:02 Anthony - Managing fatigue / autoregulation with self-coaching 00:05:49 Josh - Body recomp 00:09:08 Greg - How to progress on the Moonboard 00:11:55 Instagram - Questions about boulder development 00:17:08 Marcel - V10-12 compression demands analysis 00:25:36 Angel - Deadlift alternati...

Rocco Bocchicchio is one of the OG developers of Joe's Valley and has been climbing for 28 years. He has spent much of his climbing career on the road and is currently based near Joe's where he continues to develop boulders and also crafts handmade wooden climbing holds. In this episode, Rocco shares his wisdom on a huge range of topics, from personal ethics to the evolution of bouldering and agin...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:03:15 Cian - What do you think of the Pro Climbing League? 0:08:20 Sam - Ethics discussions on the podcast 0:10:40 Anthony - Why can outdoor climbing be more fun than indoor climbing? 0:15:12 Anthony - Yosemite for bouldering 0:16:00 Kyle - Falling at the end of a project 0:21:20 Rask - Train...

Hayley McKinney is a climber and YouTuber based out of Las Vegas. In this episode, we talk about her journey to overcome her fear of falling after a bad accident. We also talk about her new-found love of slab and scary climbing in general.

Eric Jerome is a highly accomplished boulderer and creator of the Top 100 project, an attempt to define and categorize the top 100 double digit boulders (and now single digit boulders!) in America.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:01:17 Freiherr - RPE in climbing 00:07:18 Jantina - Campusing for training 00:10:41 Cian - Staying process-oriented on indoor climbs 00:13:47 Sam - Navigating the razor's edge of try-hard and injury 00:18:47 Joe - How to prepare for Angelina Jolie V10 00:24:06 Foo - Thoughts on systems board...

Ryan Frecka is a strength and conditioning coach and multi-sport athlete based in Alberta, Canada. I have personally trained as a client of Ryan and consider him a friend. On today's podcast, we discuss Ryan's personal climbing journey, how to get the most out of a remote coach as a client, and the value of training plyometrics for climbing.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro and personal updates 00:03:00 Anthony - Balancing try-hard and being present 00:10:42 Anthony - Flagging techniques 00:14:15 Sam - Thoughts on "flashing" 00:19:25 Lorraine - Drills for power endurance 00:24:10 Joe - Predestination and free will 00:28:35 Joe - Heel-toe cams on ver...

Collin McGee is a coach with Camp 4 Human Performance and the Fitness Director at the Alliance Fitness Center in Reading, PA. Collin has coached a wide range of athletes in multiple sports and fitness disciplines. On today's podcast, we discuss the importance of strength training for climbers, which fitness trends are overrated and underrated for climbers, and the keys to building physical resilie...

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro 00:00:52 Joshua - Session capacity for projecting 00:05:31 Jantina - Yoga for climbing 00:08:26 Foo - Climbing books 00:12:17 Foo - Business advice (lol. Run away, people. Run away) 00:15:55 Eric - Squat DOMS impacting performance 00:19:45 Simon - Zooming in on single hard moves...

Flo Tilley is a mindset coach with Lattice and has a Master's degree in Sport and Exercise Psychology. On today's episode we talk about flow, overcoming fear, and the power of self talk.

Michael Hauss is a friend and client of mine. Michael is a former D1 athlete and the founder of ROQ Climbing, a new kind of climbing gym coming to Seattle. On today's episode, we talk about modern climbing gyms, starting a business, and why group coaching might be the future of climbing.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro 00:00:42 Update on fatherhood 00:04:12 Simon - Practical resources on Stoicism 00:08:53 Rose - Exercises for hypermobile shoulders 00:14:07 Alexander - Utility of ARCing and 4x4s 00:17:27 Andrew - Hamstring rehab and heel hook training 00:22:08 Max 1 - Approach to projecting as a...

Fallon Rowe is a climber, coach, photographer, and writer. On today's episode we talk about climbing with chronic illnesses, being kind to yourself and your body, finding passions outside of climbing, and writing a memoir.

Skyler Mavor is an accomplished climber and geologist. We discuss basic geology, understanding rock types, tools you can use to find rocks and understand rock types, and how understanding the natural world can help you enjoy it.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 00:00:00 Intro 00:01:19 Kyle - Visualization strategies, especially for better flashing 00:05:53 Sam - What does it mean to be a better climber? 00:13:26 Jake - Project shopping advice for overstokers 00:15:53 Ethan - Using a sport climbing trip for pre-season endurance boost 00:19:42 Jantina -...

Brian Antheunisse is a climber, dad, Hueco guide, and a few other things. We talk about his history in climbing, Hueco Tanks but especially the problem Esperanza, what his life looks like now, and how to keep finding the joy in climbing. I'll be back next week with the September AMA episode!

Ollie Torr is one of the founders of Lattice Training and a thought leader in climbing coaching. We discuss coaching philosophy, identity, lots of high-minded stuff but also lots of practical things. This was a fun and diverse chat!

Thanks Collin for joining me for a question this month! Questions:  00:00:00 Intro and updates 00:03:44 Kenz - Training while on a sport climbing trip 00:07:40 Kyle - Different headspaces for different risk levels 00:13:52 Daniel - What to do when climbing with better climbers 00:18:19 Kes - Shoe quiver 00:23:39 Simon - Sequencing on climbs with multiple methods 00:29:57 Jantina - Does climbing ch...