Vamos a Jeju!

Ed has been waiting 22 episodes to talk about his favorite mountain in the world: Hallasan, South Korea's tallest peak at 1,947 meters. This episode breaks down everything visitors need to know about climbing Hallasan, from the two summit trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) to the two partial trails (Eorimok and Yeongsil) for those who want the experience without the full commitment. Ed shares his h...

Ed invented the "mini Olleh trail" concept as a secret strategy to get his hiking-averse family members hooked on the Jeju Olleh Trail. The idea: walk a short, easy section that includes at least one stamping station, get them a passport with a few stamps, take them to the gift shop, and hope they come back to finish the rest someday. This episode maps out mini trails across the island, all under...

Ed has been waiting 20 episodes to talk about his favorite thing in Jeju: the 437-kilometer Jeju Olleh Trail. This episode covers everything a potential hiker needs to know, from the meaning of "Olleh" (a Jeju dialect word for the narrow pathway between a traditional house and the village road) to the passport stamping system, the blue (clockwise) and orange (counterclockwise) trail markers, and h...

Continuing Ed's menu of hike-hater-friendly options for his family trip, this episode covers coastal headlands, windmill walks, historically significant trails, tea plantation strolls, and waterfall visits. These are all designed with the same principles: not too long, not too steep, interesting throughout, and easy to bail out of when needed. Key Takeaways Coastal headlands: Seopjikoji (east coas...

Ed is planning a family trip to Jeju for Christmas 2026, and some family members love hiking while others absolutely hate it. This episode presents his solution: a curated menu of hikes designed for reluctant walkers. He establishes four benchmarks for hike-hater-friendly trails: under 90 minutes, minimal elevation gain, interesting things to see throughout, and places to rest (preferably cafes)....

In this episode, Ed and Sora wrap up the Hidden Jeju series by exploring activities perfect for slow travelers who want to experience Jeju on a deeper level. Slow travel doesn't require months of time; even a week or 10 days works if you're intentional about skipping the tourist checklist and pursuing meaningful local experiences. The episode covers four off-the-beaten-path activities: walking res...

Ed and Sora announce a free trip planner app they built to help DIY travelers organize Jeju itineraries. The app features 50+ activities, from popular Instagram spots to slow traveler experiences, with KakaoMap links for each destination. Ed confesses the real reason he built it: his entire family is going to Jeju for Christmas and he needed a way to get everyone on the same page. Sora tries to ge...

Ed champions the five-day markets (오일장) as the antidote to touristy Dongmun and Olle markets — fresh produce, fair prices, no crowds, and an authentic window into local Jeju life. Sora explains how these rotating markets date back to the Goryeo dynasty, with vendors traveling between villages on a 5-day cycle (dates ending in 2 and 7, or 3 and 8, etc.). Their favorites: Sehwa (near Haenyeo Muse...

Ed and Sora cover cherry blossom season in Jeju, a great alternative to fighting crowds in Japan. Jeju has its own endemic species — the King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) — discovered in the early 1900s and native only to Jeju. They share five spots: Jeonnongro Street (tunnel effect, murals as consolation prize) Noksan-ro (canola flowers + windmills + cherry blossoms triple threat) Jeju National Univer...

Ed and Sora kick off the "Hidden Jeju" series with green tea. Despite being coffee people (Sora quotes the Korean phrase 얼죽아 — "I'd freeze to death before giving up iced Americano"), they've grown to appreciate Jeju's tea culture. Jeju's volcanic soil, clean filtered water, and humid climate make it ideal for tea cultivation, now rivaling Japan's famous Uji region. They discuss the difference b...

Ed opens with his "criminal history" — killing a rental car in Japan by putting diesel in a gasoline engine. Lesson learned: green pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same in Korea). This leads into a nuanced discussion of whether DIY travelers should rent a car. The verdict: rent if you have 3-5 days and want flexibility or off-the-beaten-path destinations (west coast, tangerine farms, green t...

Ed and Sora tackle public transportation for DIY travelers. Sora admits she doesn't take buses because she's "very Korean" and impatient — buses to small villages come only once per hour. Ed shares a story about Chinese tourists stranded in Seongsan after 10pm when buses stopped running. They cover bus colors (red = express, blue = regular, green = village), the T-Money card system, transfer rules...

From $25 cockroach motels to five-star Hyatts, this episode covers the full spectrum of Jeju accommodations. Ed and Soraya break down where to stay (Jeju City for convenience, Seogwipo for tranquility, beach towns or mid-mountain for authenticity) and the types of lodging available: hostels, motels/hotels, pensions, minbak (민박, traditional room rentals), hotels, temple stays, yoga/wellness retre...

How much does a trip to Jeju actually cost? This episode breaks down every budget category and covers practical flight tips for visitors. Takeaways Flights (Seoul/Busan → Jeju) •        Price range: $15-70 one-way •        Cheapest: Mid-week, early morning or late evening flights •        Baggage: Mainline carriers allow 20kg checked baggage, but only 15kg for LCCs. All allow 10kg carry-on •      ...

Sora is finally back home in Jeju after heavy snow delayed flights and stranded travelers — including some who were caught having affairs when they couldn't return on time (K-drama in real life!). This episode breaks down what to expect in each season: winter offers fewer crowds, cheaper prices, tangerine picking, and snowy Hallasan; spring brings cherry blossoms, canola flowers, and better air qu...

Not everything on your Jeju Instagram feed is worth the trip. In this episode, Ed and Soraya rank the 10 biggest tourist traps on the island—places that are famous, often crowded, sometimes overpriced, and may leave you wondering "that's it?" Number one offender: Mysterious Road, an optical illusion that doesn't always work and isn't worth the drive. They also cover why Jeju's famous black pork ta...

Sora and Ed wrap up the "Jeju Essentials" series with an exploration of Jeju's 368 oreums — small volcanic cones scattered across the island. Unlike Hallasan or Seongsan Ilchulbong, most oreums are easy to climb (some just 10 minutes to the top), uncrowded, and offer spectacular views. Sora shares her favorites near Jeju City — Sarabong, Byeoldobong, and Dodubong — where you'll find kindergartners...

Jeju's 12 official beaches are just the beginning—this episode covers everything the island's coastline has to offer. Ed and Soraya share where to spot wild dolphins (the Sunset Coastal Road in the southwest, with 120+ dolphins in residence), the best spots for sunrise (Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan Ilchulbong) and sunset (Hallim-Hyeopjae with views of Biyangdo island). They cover family-friendly...

Tangerines are so iconic to Jeju that they made it into the podcast's logo—so this episode is overdue. Ed and Soraya cover the history (tangerines were once so precious that Joseon kings gave them as rewards to scholars), the scale (over 50 varieties grown on the island), and the best way to experience them: tangerine picking at a U-pick farm. For about 5,000 won (~$3-4 USD), you get one hour of u...

Want to understand one of Jeju's most iconic cultural traditions before it fades? This episode dives deep into the world of the haenyeo (해녀)—the women divers who harvest seafood without oxygen tanks, sometimes to depths of 20 meters. Ed and Soraya discuss the Haenyeo Museum in Hado, why it's located at the site of anti-Japanese protests, and what you'll learn inside: the evolution of diving outf...

Seongsan Ilchulbong is Jeju's second most iconic landmark after Hallasan—and for many visitors, the most accessible and memorable natural experience on the island. This episode gives you everything you need to plan your visit: what the peak actually is (a 5,000-year-old hydrovolcano with a massive crater), how long the climb takes (about 30 minutes up, 15-20 down), how to avoid crowds (early morni...

Planning a trip to Jeju but not sure what makes it different from mainland Korea? This episode gives you the essential context you need before you go. You'll learn why Jeju has its own dialect, culture, and identity—rooted in its history as the independent Tamna Kingdom before being absorbed into Korea. Ed and Soraya explain how Hallasan, the tallest mountain in South Korea, shapes everything from...

New to Jeju or thinking about visiting? This episode introduces your hosts and what the podcast will help you do: travel Jeju independently, beyond the typical tourist itineraries. You'll meet Ed, who completed the entire 437-kilometer Jeju Olleh Trail, and Soraya, a professional tour guide based in Jeju with a master's degree in Korean language teaching. They share how they connected over a share...