The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Neil Gresham   Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still pushing his limits on sport climbs (14b last year), ice climbs, and deep water solos, among other types of climbing. Although he has no formal backgrou...

About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th free ascent of The Nose on El Cap (5.14), and he recently did Wheel of Life (V15). He was on the cover of Climbing magazine for his histor...

About Neely Quinn Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it a...

About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick. What We Talked About How he prepared for Jumb...

About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on...

I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of...

About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's know...

Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing. What We Talked About How he prepares for free solos His hardest sends Why...

About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other pop...

  About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page . Please read it - it's fascinating.  What We Talked About His climbing career How...

  About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best...

Podcast is on iTunes is  HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her...

About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com , a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to t...

About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell...

About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com . He has a thing or two to say...

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes  Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin   Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the...

Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine , one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10 . Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet   We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River...

Direct Download:  LINK Date: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called  Moon Cli...

Direct Download:  LINK Date: August 12th, 2015   (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell   Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Cli...

Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine , one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a  year subscription to the magazine for $10 . Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbi...

About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at  www.neelyquinn.com . As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally...

Date: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up T...

    Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine , one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a  year subscription to the magazine for $10 . Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price.  ==>> Get The Discount   About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a spe...

About Steve Maisch   Steve Maisch   is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for themselves. He makes very hard moves look easy. Clearly, his training works, and not only for himself. He's had awesome success training other peop...

Date: June 10th, 2015 About Hazel Findlay By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically 5.13d but with death fall potential). The British phenom can been seen in videos doing sketchy climbing way above her bolt or gear with seemingly no fear. She started climbing at the age of 7 with her dad, quickly moved up the ranks as a comp climber,...