The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Arno Ilgner Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started studying up, and resonated with the Warrior's Way philosophy he found in the Carlo Castaneda books about Don Juan. He started applying t...

Date: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey   Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b).  5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in...

About Alex Puccio Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15. She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of...

About Alex Barrows I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives. When...

About Eric Hörst Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including  How to Climb 5.12 ,  Training for Climbing , and  Maximum Climbing . He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his trai...

This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are: Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!

Direct Download:  LINK Date: March 30th, 2015 About Mike Doyle Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring. He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training yo...

I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview! About Adam Ondra He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even i...

I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph Davis I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her  Wikipedia page  do it for me. Stephanie  " Steph "  Davis  (born 1973) is an American ro...

This is a recording of the free Q&A webinar that we hosted on 2-2-15. Chris and Seth answered training questions from anyone who called. Questions are focused on general training and specific questions about the training programs offered on TrainingBeta.

It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular basis. About Heather Alright, so this episode is with my friend, Heather Weidner (nee Robinson), who is a badass sport and trad climber, having redpointed Stoc...

  About Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries. He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with clim...

  About Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine  (born June 18, 1964) [3] [4] [5]  is an  American   rock climber , who together with Alex Honnold  holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of  Yosemite ’s  El Capitan  in 2:23:...

  About Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not muc...

  About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda's last year. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclo...

Hooray!! I finally did an interview with my favorite climbing trainer, Kris Peters! He's been working on TrainingBeta with us since basically the beginning, so I've had plenty of time to get to know and love this guy. He's kind of intimidating on the outside (big muscles, beard, hardass trainer), but he's a playful teddy bear on the inside. What I've noticed is that while he jokes a lot with his c...

I'm psyched to introduce this podcast with the Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the new book  The Rock Climber's Training Manual .  They're the trainers who helped J-Star turn his tr...

Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life. Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber....

Download on iTunes RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs  ClimbStrong.com , a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. Yo...

This interview is with Kris Hampton, a climber, trainer, artist, business owner, and all around great guy. I met him last fall at his home crag, the Red River Gorge, when we both had projects in the Motherlode (I was on Snooker and he was on Transworld Depravity).  He's a super chill, obviously smart guy, and we were quick friends. It wasn't long 'til he was writing the 8-Week Endurance Training P...

This interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my favorite people, and you'll understand why that is if you listen to this interview :) The interview was actually done at the house we just shared with him for a few months in Las Vegas, where...

I met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the café where I "worked"). And obviously strong as hell. She won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions during the 2003-2004 season. Over the n...

I sat down with Jamie Emerson last summer and had a really interesting chat with him. Jamie is, I think, an important voice in the climbing community. As an accomplished and ambitious climber himself, having sent up to V14, he has his finger on the pulse of the climbing community's players and their ascents. He has a deep appreciation for not only trying hard and sending hard, but also doing it al...

I sat down and chatted with my very good friend, Paige Claassen, before she took off on her  Lead Now Tour  around the country this past year. We talked about being driven by success, how she's managed to pull off proud 5.14 ascents with style, and how food affects her climbing. Since our talk, she's been traveling the globe, climbing rad sport routes, sending even more 5.14s, and raising money fo...

In this episode of The TrainingBeta Podcast, I chat with pro climber Carlo Traversi about his successes, failures, training, the pressures of being a sponsored climber, and confidence. We also talk about... The interesting circumstances that really got him started climbing What goes through his head at comps Does the pressure of being a sponsored climber get to him? How he deals with fear in climb...