The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She's been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at  RealNutritionLLC.com  where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reas...

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my be...

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is  www.sustainabledish.com , where you'll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called  Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You...

About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film "Up to Speed."  John is a sponsored climber, and according to his  bio page on La Sportiva , these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open S...

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It's super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy...

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler:  If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers  remote consultations   to people all over the world. He also teaches  online classes  on strength training and injuries.  Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do....

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we'll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don't "struggle" with energy levels, it's quite possible...

About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at  LadyBetaCoaching.com  who specializes in females' training and health needs. She's also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she's one of the only people talking about w...

I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.

About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to ba...

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.

In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.

I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.

In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.

Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.

I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.

I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.

Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.

Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.

Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.

Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.

I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.