The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13's, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how...

TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job Brian Lichtenheld is one of my close friends and one of my favorite climbing partners. I asked him to be on the show because I don't know another non-professional climber who is more psyched on climbing, and I wanted to share his infectious positive attitude with you. No matter what season it is, Brian climbs outsid...

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice  Mend  in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause...

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice  Mend  in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause...

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a  coach  at TrainingBeta and he's been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He's currently taking 4 new clients, so if you'd like to work with him, you can sign up  here . Matt c...

I'm Taking New Nutrition Clients I'm currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you're looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you'd like help with, I'm here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here . About Laura Schmidt My original idea for this podcast was to have a former nutrition client on the show to do a ref...

New Gymnastics Rings Workshop with Coach Alex Stiger Do you want to know more about using the gymnastics rings as a training tool for climbing?  On Tuesday, October 6th at 6-7:30pm MDT, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute workshop where you'll learn the key considerations for using gynmastics rings in your training plan. You'll Learn… How to properly use the rin...

About Lor Sabourin In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior's Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels. Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor. I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in the Flatirons, where I was struck by their calm d...

I was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly.  I'm an open book, but when it's recor...

New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don't know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you'll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You'll Learn… Which strength training exercises are great for cl...

Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I'm not sure why I haven't done this before, but I'll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I'm a nutrition professional, I should've been talking more about this topic all along! But it's never too late, so here's the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn't know: After completing my Bachelor's degree in P...

About Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film " Light " about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her life, and then we go deeper into her own eating...

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our  Patreon  page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If...

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he's been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gai...

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn  In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performan...

  In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles.  She al...

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE:  Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity.  Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has...

Females in Climbing  In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She's sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Perfor...

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at  www.goodsprayclimbing.com . In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it's going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also...

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-da...

About Matt Pincus Announcement:  Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity.  Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house  Remote Climbin...

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we've been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we've had a handful of pretty ser...

About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including  How to Climb 5.12 ,  Training for Climbing , and  Maximum Climbing . He's a climber in his 50's who sti...

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler:  If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers  remote consultations   to people all over the world. He also teaches  online classes  on strength training and injuries.  Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we're...

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of  ClimbingPsychology.com  and the creator of the  Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, h...