Jinni Xia

That's Not Real Climbing

Sports EN ↓ 63 episodes

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp .

Author

Jinni Xia

Category

Sports

Latest episode

Jun 29, 2026

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Episodes

Ep 12: Anita Aggarwal + Christiane Luttikhuizen - World Cup Paraclimbing 22.01.2024

Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we’ll learn about what it’s like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the p...

Ep 11: Staša Gejo - A look into isolation 08.01.2024

Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth,...

Ep 10: Sam Watson - USA's Future Speed Olympian 27.11.2023

Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how...

Ep 9: Campbell Harrison - Australian Boulder + Lead Olympic Dreams 13.11.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up...

Ep 8: Matt Groom - World Cup Commentary Behind the Scenes 30.10.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some...

Ep 7: Zoe Spriggins - Organizing Climbing World Cups 16.10.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune...

Ep 6: Allegra Maguire - The Psychology Behind Climbing Competitions 02.10.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! All...

Ep 5: Albert Ok - Finding Meaning in Coaching Speed Climbing 18.09.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!) Gue...

Ep 4: Grace Crowley - Pro Speed Climbing as a Non-Binary Athlete 04.09.2023

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports. Guest links : https://instagram.com/gracecrowlye...

Ep 3: Jonathan Sin - Trying to Become a World Cup Climber 21.08.2023

You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months , where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only...

Ep 2: Maya Witters - Former world cup judge on IFSC Controversies 05.08.2023

Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)… Guest links : https://www.instagram.com/mayasounds Ref...

Ep 1: Niklas Wiechmann - What is REAL climbing? Setting for world cup level climbers 22.07.2023

Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different c...

Ep 0: Jinni, Podcast Gumby 02.07.2023

A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast

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