Surf Splendor

In today's episode, nomadic pro surfer Ben Bourgeois joins us to explain how to travel the world on a perpetual surf trip, the tension of showcasing your life on social media without exploiting the resource, how investing in inner-work is the only path to progressing your surfing through midlife, the freedom of purging material possessions, and how self-sufficiency has been his biggest asset but l...

Troy Eckert joins us to discuss his role is helping build a billion dollar surf brand and the consternation of walking away from it, why self turmoil leads to external turmoil, the importance of saying "no", and how to get the best wave of your life after turning 50. Enjoy!

In today's show Dan Mann returns to discuss the introduction and evolution of his partnership with Firewire, how to navigate the world of internet trolls, the dividends paid in feedback from the greatest surfer of all time, what he would build for Ethan next, the misconceptions about overseas manufacturing, and why he's obsessed with side-cut surfboards. Enjoy!

In today's show board builder Dan Mann shares his very different experience with Stab In The Dark X than what we all viewed, whether he thinks Kelly knew, and details his multifaceted work history long before his association with Firewire, how Velzy and Eaton sparked his passion for alternative constructions, the tribulations and virtues of owning a glass shop, his tireless pursuit to extend the f...

In Part Two, Jeff Johnson explains how he side-doored his way into becoming Patagonia's first staff photographer, the toll of being sued by one of his surf idols, and he distills the value of being naive to your own limitations. Enjoy!

Adventurer Jeff Johnson joins us today to explain his path from ne'er-do-well skate teen to world class photographer; from stealing lumber to build skate ramps, to lifeguarding on the North Shore, to designing a professional life of world travel, Jeff explains how boredom is the key to unlocking your life's passion. Part One of Two. Enjoy!

In today's episode Torren Martyn returns to discuss leaving Byron to rebalance life, his latest sailing journey to circumnavigate Tasmania in an 18 foot kayak, staying true to a filmmaking focus despite market shifts, intentionally deflecting career opportunities in order to maintain a singular focus, and how seeking solitude can yield deeper community connections. Enjoy!

In today's show designer Matt Titone discusses the inception point for Indoek and their Surf Shack's series, relives the anxiety of not knowing how to pick a career, marvels at the enduring influence of print, explains how great home design has little correlation with money, reveals which surfers refuse to let him into their home, the frustration of working with surf brands, and why creative inspi...

Paul Strauch passed away this past weekend, at peace, at home with loved ones, comfortable and with his beloved Hawaiian music playing by his bedside. His daughter Summer said, "I asked my dad recently what he would want to say to everyone when he stepped into eternal life. He smiled and said, 'ALOHA'." Today we're sharing an interview with Paul, recorded in 2019, where he reflects on his early li...

In today's show board builder Eden Saul explains his shifting manufacturing practices in response to erratic US tariffs, injury's endless travails on a shaper's livelihood, the blessed gift of finding a committed apprentice, the scary first step of scaling and delegation, how to create a brand aesthetic while still letting you lam team go nuts, and a patriotic fervor for the new crop of CT shredde...

Legendary pro surfer Rob Machado is widely regarded as one of the most influential and stylish surfers of all time. But Rob's relationship with and impact on surfing and the ocean run much deeper than his professional career.  In this episode, Rob shares about his deep family roots in Southern California and traces his personal journey as an ocean advocate —  from taking water samples for Surfride...

Today's episode features a conversation between Gerry Lopez and early Hawaiian surf pioneer Paul Strauch. Strauch thanks Lopez for preventing crowds at Sunset, discuss the virtues of surfing pre-leash, reflect on the deeply integrated influence of Duke's spirit still in their lives and the special bond of communicating with him in native Hawaiian, growing up in Hawaii before statehood, surfing thr...

Today's episode features a conversation between Greg Noll and early Hawaiian surf pioneer Paul Strauch. Noll and Strauch reflect on early lessons hard earned on North Shore in the 1960s, regale with stories of larger than life friends and waves, chart the path of how big wave surfing has developed from their early exploits, and recognize the tremendous gift that surfing was in their lives. PodAloh...

Today's episode features a conversation between Skip Frye and early Hawaiian surf pioneer Paul Strauch. From Strauch, "Skip Frye is a legendary figure in the surfing world, renowned for his exceptional skills and significant contributions to surfboard design. With a career spanning several decades, Skip has been a key innovator, known for his work in shaping surfboards that have influenced modern...

Genre defining pro freesurfer of the 90s, Margo, joins us to discuss ushering pro surfing from cottage to corporate, humility gleaned while working as a baggage handler, how a passion for bird watching led to his greatest work, and what sparked the revival in his surf career at age 50. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's show board builder Roger Hinds shares strategies to fend off the old man and continue surfing the North Shore into your 70s, offers a lesson in why original board building materials are still relevant and which modern fabrics offer advancement, reveals why the real threat to domestic board building may come from within, reflects on the reward of restoring historic boards, and explains h...

In today's show Bob McTavish attributes his biggest design epiphanies to the evolution of the surfboard fin, and each of those to a personal relationship that sparked his inspiration. He shares how Dave Rastovich altered his perception on hydrodynamics, reveals the unfathomable generosity of Bill Bahne, the ingenuity of Tom Morey and Carl Pope, explains how the Sydney ferry and Greenough's tuna fi...

In today's show surf biz stalwart Randy Hild details the various false starts at Roxy prior to the inception of their industry-disrupting female boardshort, the tension between scaling and brand authenticity, which parts of the Golden Era were fake and inflated, how a serendipitous Swap Meet discovery led to him becoming an inadvertent surf history archivist, and why 1953 Makaha would be his ultim...

In today's episode Bob McTavish explains how one of his most iconic designs came to him in a dream and Joey Cabell's influence in it, he shares the inception of the swallowtail, his afternoon spent with Duke Kahanamoku, the epiphany he had at Rincon in 1967, why he renounced competition for a mortgage and children, climbing out of suffocating debt with an assist from the cast of Jackass, the board...

In today's episode Bob McTavish shares stories from surfing in an era prior to foam cores and surf wax, charts the path from dropping out of school to surf, to being homeless with only $10 to his name, to stowing away on a ship to Hawaii for the North Shore winter, the jail time that resulted, and he reveals the only two surfboards he's ever purchased in his life. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad c...

Surf photographer and photo editor Jeff Divine's imagery has largely framed our perspective on North Shore surfing from the 70s and 80s. Today he shares stories from the era defining Expression Session in 1971, reveals that he didn't befriend Gerry Lopez until a decade after they had helped build one another's careers, he discusses how the inception of clothing brands altered surf mags editorial s...

In today's show board builder Max Stewart explains the inverse relationship between product quality and business growth, tales from early days at Hayden Shapes, how Tom Carroll has informed how he takes custom orders and why he factors your personality into the order card. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's episode the Encyclopedia of Surfing's Matt Warshaw discusses the risks of having surf history chronicled by a single man, who's gotten short shrift on the EOS, how much and how little has changed in surf culture since the first magazine, an examination of pioneering female surf photographers, the first surfer to go at Backdoor, and why he got screamed at (and run over) on his most recen...

In today's episode Jordan Rodin joins us to chat about life lessons and hazing gleaned from Derek Hynd, make a case for heavier surfboards, explain his 5 year hiatus from getting barreled, why you should be stripping down used boards and reshaping them, what famous sculptors of centuries past can teach us about surfing, why sometimes the smallest movements can translate to the biggest things. Enjo...

In today's show actor John Philbin recounts his life as an escape artist, shares dangers of achieving one's life goals, the false paradigm of self-confidence, why he is not a good actor, how to reform a bitter and angry disposition, and why he doesn't trust anyone who isn't a hypocrite. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices