Sighs and Whispers

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with fashion designer Ronaldus Shamask. Known for his architectural designs, Ron grew up in the Netherlands before emigrating to Australia at the age of 12. After working as a window dresser in Melbourne, he moved to London in the late 1960s, where he found work as a fashion illustrator. After a few years designing for the theatre in Buffalo...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with fashion designer Erika Elias. Now 95, Erika Elias was born in Vienna in 1930 and raised in Czechoslovakia before escaping to America with her family in 1940. Once in New York City, she studied at the School of Industrial Art (now the High School of Art and Design) and Parsons before starting a career in fashion in the 1950s. By 1960, sh...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with fashion designer and artist Hylan Booker. Born and raised in Detroit, Hylan Booker came to the UK in 1958 as a G.I. in the US Air Force. In his downtime, he studied at the Swindon School of Art, before enrolling at the Royal College of Art in London, where he studied alongside Ossie Clark. Booker launched his own line after graduation i...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with photographer and filmmaker Denis Piel. Born in France and raised in Australia, Denis Piel began shooting advertising work in the 1960s, establishing his own studio before discovering a passion for fashion photography. After moving to Europe in the early 1970s, he shot for many of the hippest young fashion magazines, like French Elle and...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with artist and illustrator Richard Ellescas. From Southern California, the Filipino-Chinese-Native American Dick Ellescas found his way to art and illustration through the kindness of a series of mentors, before studying at the School of Visual Arts, Chouinard Art, and Art Center College of Design, where he later taught. His artistry led hi...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with movie critic and author Molly Haskell. A legendary film critic, with her first book, ‘From Reverence to Rape: the Treatment of Women in the Movies’ (1973) Molly Haskell fundamentally changed the way we look at women in film and basically started the whole field of feminist film theory and criticism. Starting her career in the mid-1960s...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms in conversation with illustrator and graphic designer Barry Zaid. Canadian self-taught artist Barry Zaid had had a long, fruitful career that has taken him all over the world. While living in London in the mid-to-late-1960s, his stylized 20s-inspired art and graphics were a vital part of the nascent Art Deco revival; they can be seen on the cover o...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms is back with a conversation with writer, actor, narrator, Zen Buddhist priest, and countercultural icon Peter Coyote. As the narrator for many of Ken Burns’ documentaries, Peter Coyote has been described as the “voice of America,” yet his life and career are far most interesting and diverse. He came to screen acting and fame in his 40s, leading a w...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with Sally Ann Parsons. Sally Ann Parson is the grande dame of the Broadway, dance and theatre costume worlds. Now in her 80s, she has been involved with the theatre since she was a small child—first as an actress, then as a costume designer for downtown dance troupes and ballets and, since 1980, the owner of a costume workshop. Parson-Meare...

After a two-year break, fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms is back with a conversation with artist Steven Thomas. After studying at the Chelsea School of Art in the mid-60s, Steve started his career in Swinging London, modelling, painting the façade of Chelsea boutique Dandie Fashions, and designing album artwork for bands, including the Rolling Stones. In the late 1960s, a girlfrie...

After a two-year break, fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms is back with a conversation with fashion designer Stan Herman. Stan Herman is a living legend in the American fashion industry. At 97-years-old, Stan been designing and working in the New York fashion industry since the early 1950s. After becoming a youthquake fashion star as head designer for Mr. Mort in the late 60s, start...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with leather artisans and costumers Whitaker Malem. The British leather-making duo Patrick Whitaker and Keir Malem having been loving, working, and living together for over 35 years. Its more than likely that you are well acquainted with their work, even if the name Whitaker Malem rings no bells. If you’ve ever watched Die Another Day, The D...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with pop artist, painter and sculptor Allen Jones. Allen was born in Southampton in 1937 and grew up in the London suburbs. He studied painting and lithography at Hornsey College of Art between 1955 and 1959, after which he entered the Royal College of Art alongside what was to become the first generation of British pop artists. After teachi...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks author, journalist, activist and founding editor of Ms. Magazine, Letty Cottin Pogrebin. From Queens, Letty grew up in a conservative Jewish family. At age 20 in 1960, she became the director of publicity for the publishing company Bernard Geis Associates—later rising to vice president. There she was instrumental in making books like ‘Valley...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with author, screenwriter and TV producer James Fritzhand. Originally from Brooklyn, James Fritzhand published his first novel in 1971, ‘Son of the Great American Novel.’ He then went on to publish seventeen further novels, across many genres and using several pseudonyms—from showbiz roman a clefs to sagas to gothics to adventure novels and...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with art director and author Steven Heller. An incredibly creative and prolific individual, Steven is the author, co-author or editor of over 200 books on graphic design, illustration and political art. I interviewed him in the fall, around the publication of “Growing Up Underground: A Memoir of Counterculture New York,” which details his te...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with aerobics instructor and actress Bess Motta. Bess Motta was born and raised right outside Los Angeles, and began acting in school plays at a young age. After high school, she went on to star in “The Great American Backstage Musical” on stage in San Francisco and London—arriving back from her British sojourn thirty pounds heavier. Needing...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with artist and illustrator Emanuel Schongut. Manny Schongut has had a long and diverse career as an illustrator. From upstate New York, Schongut studied and taught at Brooklyn’s Pratt Institute before becoming a freelance illustrator. During the 1960s, Schongut became known for his distinctive book covers, often for science fiction and crim...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms is back this week with a conversation with former model and artist Pat Runningbear Evans. One of the most memorable models of the late 1960s and 1970s, Pat Evans was born and raised in Harlem. After she shaved her head, her modeling career became highly successful with Pat starring in ad campaigns, editorials and on the cover of three legendary Ohi...

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms is back this week with a conversation with art collector, muse, journalist, and editor Joan Agajanian Quinn. Joan Quinn has been a major force in the Los Angeles art scene for 70 years, as a collector, promoter, advocate, and friend to generations of artists. While amassing a large “accumulation” of art, her passion and collecting zeal also made he...

After a little hiatus, fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms meets with the president of the Estate of Richard Bernstein, Rory Trifon. Known for his saturated, highly glamorous covers for Interview magazine, Richard Bernstein was born in New York in 1939; he passed away from AIDs-related complications in 2002. Richard created the cover for every Interview magazine up until Warhol's dea...

Returning for a new season, fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms meets with fashion designer, actress and model Edina Ronay. Born in Budapest to a family of successful restaurateurs, Edina Ronay fled to London with her parents after the war. There her father opened a restaurant and then founded what became a very successful and influential series of guidebooks, starting with Egon Rona...

Returning for a new season, fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms meets with photographer Susan Wood. Susan Wood is a New Yorker born and bred. She started her career in the early 1950s, working in the lab at LIFE magazine before having her first photo published in Harper’s Bazaar in 1955. Over the subsequent decades Susan photographed for everyone and truly across all genres. Fashion,...

Hugo Vickers is a writer, historian and broadcaster who discovered his interest in history and the royal family while still at school. He is the author of many books about the royal family, the British aristocracy, Cecil Beaton and other related topics. In his twenties he began researching a famed beauty he had seen mentioned in a book as a teenager—according to all reports she had disappeared but...

Shirley Lord is a journalist, beauty editor and expert, and novelist, who rose from working-class Cockney lass to one of the most influential people in the beauty industry through grit, good humor, and a passion for journalism. A features editor for a British women’s magazine by age 24, three years later she married the carpet tycoon Cyril Lord. Weaving easily between high-class entertaining and a...