Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing

Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build fa...

In this episode I share actionable tips to make your winter climbing training fun and fresh. I love winter training & that's when I see measurable progress. You can beat the distractions of outdoor climbs, ditch the drive, and enjoy simple and focused winter climbing training. I know sometimes it can feel like a grind to get motivated, and things can feel heavier when it's dark and dreary, but...

In today's episode I'm talking Recovery Techniques in the form of Recovery Rituals. These rituals will help you be more energetic, lower your risk of injury, and you'll enjoy better climbing sessions. Find out the role of energy in your body, and how it effects your recovery. Also learn how to reevaluate your training intensity and volume, as well as create better habits around nutrition, sleep, y...

Today let's redefine "old age" when it comes to climbing. We love busting some myths! It's so inspiring to see "older" people climb and find JOY while climbing. "Old" is relative, of course. So let's jump in this conversation together and change the way we think of old age. Age is not a limit! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together A...

Happy 1 Year Podcast Anniversary! At Modus, Mercedes is celebrating 5 years since starting this business and Katja is celebrating 3 years since joining, and together we're going behind the scenes to talk about what it's like to run a business, why we started this podcast, and where it's going. We think of it like climbing - there's a lot of joy that goes into it, as climbers we do hard things and...

Our time is valuable! To help you make the most of your sessions, we have 5 Time Saving Tips for projecting sport climbs. These tips are targeted towards sending a sport route quickly in terms of how many sessions are spent on a route. Perhaps you're on a trip, or you have short seasons - you'll benefit from learning these tips! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.mo...

Today's time-saving episode is about the TOP 5 Time-Saving Tips for Projecting Outside! (Don't fret, you can use these for indoor bouldering too). If you find you're short on time, or just want to send your project faster - use these helpful, practiced tactics to set yourself up for success! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Als...

Today we're talking about how to increase climbing capacity for longer days outside. This was a member question that we touched on in our Q&A episode, and here we are with more context. Learn what capacity means, specific examples, and what increasing capacity can mean to you as a climber. This is a great nugget of information for those wanting to identify where you need to work your capacity....

We believe in redefining training - it's not just for hardcore athletes, it's for everybody. Join Katja today for another episode of "normal people who climb." In our 2nd member interview I am joined by long term member Kris Eaton as she shares her story and passion for climbing training as a lifestyle to be pursued until old age. OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership: https://www.m...

Today we're answering our listener's questions! Also, it's OPEN ENROLLMENT for our Climbing Training Membership! The Modus motto "Strong, Healthy Humans Make Strong, Healthy Climbers" is clear in today's episode where you'll learn just why we care for and coach the whole person - not just the climber. Also, get a peek of the basic framework of our membership and hear some Listener Q&A's about...

We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a...

What do good training plans and good smoothies have in common? Katja is on fire with this analogy! First we ask: what is training? What do you think of when it comes to being trained? Learn what we at Modus believe about training & perhaps shift the view in your climbing training program! We give you the components for good training and good smoothies as we discuss ingredients, dosage, combina...

In today's episode we're going to talk about what you can expect from climbing coaching, specifically with us at Modus! Curious about one-on-one coaching or group coaching? Find out about the advantages of working with Modus, and which climbing training you'd best fit in! Plus learn about the benefits of one-on-one and group coaching. We share our experiences being coached, expectations of coachin...

Are you a beginner to board climbing? This Part 2 episode is for you! We're going over the top tips to get you started on a training board. Katja and I both use training boards in our own training and in coaching. Today's episode is jam packed with tips on how to get started, and let's not forget etiquette! Have a listen, and start training with us today! Free ways to work with us: Intro To Traini...

We're discussing performance climbing with Steve Bechtel today! Seems straightforward, but there can be some confusion about what you can actually achieve during a performance climbing phase, and how can we as athletes manage our expectations around it. Join our conversation as we talk about optimizing the conditions that lead to a great performance phase. Free ways to work with us: Intro To Train...

Have some fun with us in today's episode and let's discuss differences between board climbing and gym climbing. The advantages, disadvantages, and how to adapt your training to each! Which do you prefer to climb on? Did you know about all the ways to utilize these tools? Did we miss anything? What has a training board or gym climb taught you? Let us know in the comments! Free ways to work with us:...

In this solo episode of Modus Cafe, I get vulnerable about my struggle through an elbow injury. Recovery was about two years which is the longest recovery I've experienced. I questioned my identity as a climber, as a coach, as a human. Not only am I sharing about how I overcame physical limitations, and found other ways of movement, but how I had to hurdle over the mental and emotional frustration...

Today, we're discussing the advantages and disadvantages of pyramids in climbing training, when to use them, and why. This training tool helps climbers build a base of easier climbs while progressing to more difficult ones, and ultimately setting themselves up for success for their hardest sends. Pyramids can be tailored to a climber's specific goal, and if utilized effectively, this training can...

We're back with Steve Bechtel! At Modus we say, "Recover as hard as you train!" Today we emphasize the crucial role of recovery in training and climbing. We discuss the importance of developing work capacity, optimizing recovery strategies, and balancing training and recovery. Also in our conversation learn about active recovery, proper nutrition and sleep for recovery, and the drawbacks of overtr...

Let's talk about strength training! What does that mean in terms of reps? What about intensity? Join us in today's episode to learn the science behind it, and what it means to train for endurance vs strength endurance vs strength. What's your goal? We'll help you understand how to reach your most efficient strength benefit! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website...

Deadlifting can be overwhelming and complicated to learn, but once you have the technique dialed in, this exercise can greatly improve the strength and health of a climber's body. Join us for this podcast as we cover how to get started deadlifting, the benefits, practical tips, common misconceptions, how to move around pain, gym etiquette, and how to make the best adjustments to the movement. Want...

Continuing on this training series with Steve Bechtel, we cover power endurance. This energy system is the sexy one, the one that everyone wants to train. But the system can also lag behind, be misused, and lead to burnout and injury if done incorrectly. We call this energy system "the icing on the cake," this is especially true if you have put a lot of work into training the other facets of train...

In this episode, Amanda Fit joins us to chat nutrition for climbers.  Nutrition is always a difficult topic because it's so heavily based on individual needs.  But in this episode, Amanda covers some general ideas for you so you can make the best nutrition choices for yourself as a climber and athlete.  Some topics covered: Why fueling during your session is so important.  Fuel...

It's Mercedes' birthday! In this episode, coach Katja asks Mercedes about more personal questions and what it's like being a coach. This is a great one if you wanna get to know Coach Mercedes a little better :) Mercedes currently has 2 spots open for one-on-one coaching. Apply here: https://forms.gle/adgezW7aWvWDYUcN7

When you switch from indoor to outdoor climbing, your approach will likely change. Most people "feel" that outdoor climbing is harder. Climbers sometimes feel frustrated with their efforts outdoors, scared, and discouraged by the grades. This is normal. Indoor climbing is much different than outdoor climbing. There are a lot of factors to consider when climbing outdoors that you don’t have to worr...