Hardcore Surf History

On this Hardcore Surf History… Time, space, and reality are more than a linear path. They form a prism of endless possibility. A single choice can branch out into infinite realities, creating alternate worlds from the ones known. In this episode, we dare to explore the question of What if… And of course in an alternate reality, I dominate my brother in Stump my bro… Learn more about your ad choice...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History: Bonus Section, we delve into the fascinating story of 'Point of Change,' a thought-provoking documentary about the unintended consequences of surf exploration on indigenous cultures. We discuss the journey of its director, Rebecca Coley, and the profound impacts observed on the island of Nias, Indonesia. We unpack the tale of Kevin Lovett and John Giesel's...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Our guest is Bruce Sutherland, the co-founder of the Stormrider Guidebook. Bruce shares captivating stories from his surfing journeys across Europe, Africa, and beyond, all without the aid of modern technology like smartphones or GPS. Our conversation dives deep into the origins of the Stormrider Guidebook, co-founded with Ollie Fitch Jones a...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, It's Chandler's worst nightmare! Surf Contests. From the thrilling spectacle to philosophically divisive, we explore how surf contests have propelled progression, innovation and cultural milestones. We raise the question of "how do you" judge something rooted in style, feel and art? We dive into the different formats, the flaws, the flashpoints and histori...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we explore surfing in the time of the Hawaiian Renaissance of the late 60's and 70s. Lopez, BK, Bertleman, Buttons, Reno, Sunn, are just a few names that represented a new paradigm in surfing. The Hawaiians were no longer taking a backseat to their mainland brethren. They were leading the charge of performance surfing while Hawaiians of all walks of life w...

Often overlooked for the warmer waters of its Hawaiian and Californian counterparts, the Atlantic coast of New Jersey has been home to surfing for 135 years, and in turn has held unsung influence over the history of the sport in America."  That is the Opening Quote for the newly released book "I Heard There Were No Waves in New Jersey: Surfing on the Jersey Shore 1888-1984" by Rizzoli Publishing a...

It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest's story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years that saw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades.  Som...

The great Phil Edwards once said something along the lines of, 'My first wave was the best ride of my life. Everything after was downhill.' Whether that was true or not, the point made was the first taste of surfing often leads to obsession that sticks for life. And like any addiction, the stories of how we get hooked are as varied as the addicts themselves. From Hollywood Films to cool older brot...

It would be impossible to overstate the legend of Michael Peterson in the annals of Australian surfing. 1976 World Champ, Peter Townend, described him as: "Miki Dora, James Dean and Marlon Brando, all rolled into one." At the time, he was regarded by many as the best surfer that had ever lived. One of the most iconic images in surfing history is of Michael Peterson at Kirra in 1971 laying his boar...

On this episode, Was surfing really better way back when? We explore the pros and cons of being a surfer today. We ask, Is our perception of the past a cognitive bias? Or was it really that much better? And did waves pump that much harder. Plus, Jamie and Tyler see how their past experiences stack up against each other with another round of Stump my Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit meg...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Tyler goes full on surf nerd with the legendary Matt George. They discuss his new book 'In Deep' and get the real story behind behind 'In Gods Hands', his win at the Mr. Hot Buns Competition at the Allentown Wave Pool competition and reflect on how the media landscape has changed. This is a not to be missed episode! Learn more about your ad c...

On this episode, we tackle the essential question: What is Style and why does it matter? We ask What makes a surfer stylish? Where did we get our notions of style from? Who has it? Who doesn't? and Why does it mean so much to us? We wade our way into the fraught and subjective topic on a matter of style. And of course… The Breuer Brothers try to out-vogue each other with Stump My Bro. Learn more a...

On today's episode we look in the mirror and take a long, hard, sobering look at the image of surfing. How important is surfing's image? Does it shape surfing's culture? Does it affect who takes up the sport? Does it impact on the actual experience itself? Do these questions even matter? Then after we stare long enough at ourselves, Jamie and Tyler have a staring contest and try to Stump My Bro. L...

At This year's Rip Curl Bells Beach Easter Classic's 60th Anniversary, Tom Curren and Mark Occhilupo–two of surfing's most influential characters and rivals–competed in a special Heritage Heat. The Curren/Occy Rivalry is stuff of legends. Many middle aged men get weak in the knees just mentioning the two. But.. Why? Why do we care so much about this rivalry? What is its importance to pro surfing?...

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we dive into our Houses of the Holy: The Surf Shop. What have they meant to surfers over the years? How have they shaped surf culture? The history of surf retail and how they have evolved over time. Plus another round of "Stump my Bro." Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

For over ten years, spanning the 70's decade and into the 80's, the global misadventures of Kevin Knaughton and Craig Peterson appeared in amusing, you-are-there detail in Surfer Magazine. Their stories, authentic accounts of dirtbag travel with surfboards, inspired a generation of readers to get out there and see the world through a surfer's eye. In this episode we talk to the Craig Peterson abou...

On this episode, we explore the reasons for surf travel and the many adventures and tales that have been told through the years. We discuss the pioneers and the moral questions that surf travel brings with it and when would have been the golden era of surf exploration? And… we've gone to the end of the earth to find a question that would Stump My Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaph...

On this episode, Tyler had the incredible opportunity to talk to the legendary filmmaker, Greg MacGillivray. Business partner Jim Freeman, MacGillivray produced a series of films from the mid-'60s to the early '70s that set the standard for technical excellence. Their final surf film Five Summer Stories was deemed as one of the greatest surf films of all time. It's an in depth deep dive into the c...

Today's episode is all about the World Champs! Who are they and why do we care? We explore the purpose of having a world champion, the different formats to decide a title, and the figures and personalities that make up the long list of past, present and future world champions. And the Breuer Bros battle it out to see who's number one when it comes to surf trivia with the ultimate Stump My Bro. Lea...

Today we compliment our Brazil episode with a conversation with writer, adventurer, former 'Fluir Magazine' and 'Brazilian Surfers Journal' editor Adrian Kojin. We explore the vast history of Brazilian surf culture, learn about its iconic figures, key events and the great people who make up this surfing super power. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we dive into the colorful, rich, often overlooked history of Brazilian Surfing. From its roots as a leisure activity for the elites, to its pathway out of the favela's for many of its celebrated surfers, we assess their current world domination in an attempt to fully appreciate the deep and vast culture of surfing in Brazil. Plus the Breuer Brothers do a little capoeira style sparring with a...

As a supplement to our Longboard Revolution episode we interview former Longboard Magazine Editor and former WSL Longboard World Tour Commissioner, Devon Howard. We get a clear-eyed view of the Longboard Revival, its evolution, the players, and the politics. What follows is truly for the surf nerds! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this episode we explore one of the most consequential movements in surfing, 'The Longboard Revolution.' From Boomers with disposable income and a taste for nostalgia, to the battle between Joel Tudor's traditionalist style vs Joey Hawkins progressive attack, and the enduring impact on lineups around the world! We trace its rise and importance. Plus, another round of Stump My Bro.  Learn more ab...

If you haven't heard of Patti Paniccia, you can be forgiven. Surf history and the magazines have all but white washed women pioneers and their contributions. Patti was not only one of the first women to compete on the pro tour, but also was a founding member and director of the IPS World tour in the mid 70's alongside Randy Rarick and Fred Hemmings. We had the incredible opportunity to help set th...

Today we discuss the birth of women's pro Surfing and the white wash its' history. The current boom in women's surfing owes much to the incredible female pioneers who had to overcome incredible obstacles to lay the foundation for where we are today. We dive into this history and attempt to set the record straight. Plus the bros have a duel to the death with another round of Stump My Bro. Enjoy! Le...