Phil Kalas, Nick Horween
Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas
For leather nerds! The finest leather, boots, shoes, bags, raw denim, drinks, watches, and more. Leather tannery veterans Nick Horween (5th generation, Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Founder, Ashland Leather) cover manufacturing, leather, boots, denim, everyday carry and the talented people who are creating the world's finest products. Get the inside scoop and a greater understanding for high quality goods with a new episode released every week.
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Episodes
EP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph Lauren 13.03.2023 1:29:44
George Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and colors. George talks about their mission to make shoes in the USA, explains hand lasting, and tells us how Ralph Lauren is an inspiration. 0:00 Calfskin Shortage 7:45 Why Made in USA? 18:31 Hand Lasted Boots 31:07 Boat Shoes and Handsewn Shoes 41:15 Best-...
EP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring Musician 06.03.2023 55:53
Werner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician. 0:00 Can you play bleed? 1:13 Posh touring life in France 4:28 Is there money in music? 9:54 Why bass? 17:04 Writing Process 25:58 International Touring 33:00 What do your parents think? 35:12 What do you want to be better at? 39:04 Favorite Bassist 44:33...
EP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXL 27.02.2023 1:07:45
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com 0:00 Chat GPT 2:14 Cordovan & Dublin Scratching and Repair 5:21 New Cypress Leather 10:50 Leather We Don’t Like 15:00 Horween’s Austin Leather 13:13 Most Common Belt Size 18:44 Steerhide vs. Horsehide 24:37 Size of Viberg and Ashland and Horween 31:44 Drum Dye and Aniline Dye 34:4...
E17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, Wesco 20.02.2023 1:29:06
Josh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear and his adventure chasing smiles. https://blackbearbrand.com/ https://www.instagram.com/blackbearbrand/ 0:00 Next to the tannery everyday 4:35 Kevin Costner Jacket on Yellowstone 12:43 Black Bear Origin 18:58 A Weekend in Whistler 28:39 Vintage cars an...
E16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper Fit 13.02.2023 1:44:40
Sean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward Green and sells their footwear, and other brands, in his downtown Chicago store. https://dashingchicago.com/ https://www.instagram.com/dashingchicago 0:00 Sharp Dressed Man 2:42 Sean Dashing Chicago 5:21 In-Person Shopping 7:42 Midwest Style 14:35 L...
E15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWII 06.02.2023 1:08:19
Nick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the original uses, and strengths/weaknesses of this special tannage. 0:00 We’re Back 1:13 Chromexcel Leather 2:50 Original Uses Boots and Seals 9:04 What is Chromexcel 19:07 CXL on Boots and Shoes and Belts 21:05 CXL Stretch and Drying Methods 31:36 CXL Variat...
E14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality Specs 26.12.2022 1:10:57
Part two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show
E13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, Lasts 19.12.2022 1:03:15
Part one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to ful...
E12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and Ticho 12.12.2022 1:39:05
The crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast. https://www.stitchdown.com/ https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/all-podcast-episodes/ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodc...
E11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer Boxboard 05.12.2022 1:16:21
Answering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show
E10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary Collabs 28.11.2022 52:13
Andrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now known for raw denim jeans. https://www.3sixteen.com/ https://www.instagram.com/andrew3sixteen https://www.instagram.com/johan3sixteen Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world&apos...
E9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, Minimalism 21.11.2022 1:25:48
Jason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to creation. https://makr.com/ https://www.instagram.com/makr_ Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgra...
E8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina Thunderdome 14.11.2022 56:24
What is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the sho...
E7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery Row 07.11.2022 59:59
Today's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US culture, social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin and more. 1:55 US Drinking Habits 5:56 First Cell phones 11:05 Inclusive Drinking 15:33 Chicago dive bars 23:37 Export of US Culture 26:15 social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin 37...
E6: Skip Horween Tannery Work, Seasonality of Hides, Made in Maine, Boat Shoe Indicator 31.10.2022 58:01
Skip Horween is the 4th generation owner of Horween Leather Company in Chicago. 0:00 What it is like working at a tannery? 5:50 Material Price increases 8:26 Leather Lead Times 12:15 Seasonality of Hides 15:47 Supply Chain and Inflation Cycle 24:09 Shoemaking in Maine 30:34 The Boat Shoe Indicator 36:36 Football Cycle 39:44 Hides are Different Today 45:11 I can't believe it's not leather...
E5: Leather Prices Increasing, Supply Chain, Just In Time Inventory, James Webb Space Telescope 24.10.2022 44:45
Space facts! Along with just about everything, we are experiencing leather price increases. Why are they going up? Chatting about supply chain issues, globalization, just in time inventory management, and the James Webb Space Telescope. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather...
E4: Sustainability, Environmental Stewardship, "Vegan Leather", Patagonia, Waterproof 17.10.2022 42:29
Sustainability is a loaded term. Everything has an impact. Nick Horween breakdown the environmental auditing process that many tanneries receive. "Vegan leather" are two words that probably should be used together. Patagonia is making an effort to move away from durable water repellant. Fluorinated DWR contains PFCs which are a suspected carcinogen. Need a wallet that is made for patina...
E3: Brett Viberg of Viberg Boot - New Brand Direction, Service Boot, Chromexcel Lottery, Customer Service 10.10.2022 56:59
A conversation with Brett Viberg from Viberg boot. We ask Brett about what changes are being made to the brand, how the service boot ushered in a new era, what each generation has brought to the business, the Chromexcel Lottery, customer service, and other topics. Check out Viberg Boot here . Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want t...
E2: Football Leather Hat(?), What is Full Grain Leather, JR Rendenbach Closing 30.09.2022 1:00:12
As you expect, everything else is falling apart. Today's episode goes hard on leather marketing terms like, full grain, top grain, genuine leather, aniline leather, and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . Support the show
E1: Chicago Hot Dogs, Podcasts, Being Old, HBO Shows 25.09.2022 23:59
Please allow myself to introduce...myself. Full Grain Podcast is Nick Horween and Phil Kalas chatting about quality goods and the people who make them. First episode! Today we chat about how raw onions are terrible on Chicago Hot Dogs. They aren't good, right? Today's intro episode is about podcasts that we like, what type of content to look forward to at Full Grain and what content we d...
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