Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas

Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and i...

Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather...

First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCo Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for l...

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess. 0:00 Topics 0:30 Horween Cypress Leather  12:06 Grey Color &am...

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC.  0:00 What’s a podcast? 0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome 45:25 Boot Camp 57:35 Leather Perspective https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/ https://www.stitchdown.com/ https://www.ashl...

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. 0:00 American Original 1:08 Is CXL Overrated? 19:12 Is Alden Overpriced? 30:03 WWII Boots 38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago 52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Round 1:00:38 Favorites https://www.youtube.com/...

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce. https://www.turnkeymadison.com/ https://www.settledownmadison.com/ https://www.ozbyo...

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://www.horween.com/ https:...

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more. 0:00 Best Shell Cordovan 1:40 First Shell Cordovan Pair and Care 4:...

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. 0:00 What is Aniline Leather 8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing 14:06 Is aniline leather tough? 16:27 Leather finishin...

Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here. 0:00 Genuine Leathers 0:21 What is suede? 9:10 What is rough out and waxed flesh leather? 10:27 Marine Field Shoe CXL 15:19...

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions.  0:00 Favorite Episodes 4:03 Arabica Lux Leather 6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss 9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan 10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers 14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather 16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot 22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf? 27:11 What Scent Does the Tannery Have? 29:02 Horween Shell Cordovan vs. Other Ta...

Going deep on leather care.  0:00 1990’s Miami Painting 1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide 4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine 7:58 Leather is Designed to Last 12:31 Shoe Trees 13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine 15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather 17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap 20:59 Use Less Polish 23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax 24:35 Leather Polish, Venetian Shoe Cream, Saphir...

Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half. 0:00 Alden Indy Boot 11:30 Making Mistakes 16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands 19:37 Quality Testing Methods 22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter? 31:17 Hunting 32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat 39:47 Finding Nuance 42:43 Peaks and Valleys of Life 4...

Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh and pointed take on a beloved brand, Alden. 0:00 R...

Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://www.horween.com/ https://...

Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram emai...

Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions...

Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks and how they comp...

Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle. 0:00 Work from anywhere 4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques 7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials 13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather 17:19 The Best Material 21:10 Designing for Different Markets 23:12 Selling on Amazon 26:13 Leather Finish and Variation 30:16 Sustainability 36:26 Ap...

What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is the most suitable for a formal shoe? A rugged boot?...

The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and Leather In this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy products, and offers advice on choosing the right ha...

Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina. https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/ https://patina.com/ 0:00 Coming to America 2:22 Starting Portland Leather 7:25 Leather 12:16 Forecasting 16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays 21:24 Leather for Women 35:00 Best Leather? 43:23 Mystery Box 45:36 Scale 54:08 Growing in a Pandemic 56:16 Sustainability - Recraftable Boo...

Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat bogs. 0:00 A Beautiful Voice 0:24 Real Estate Mark...

Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries. 0:00 Eye Surgery 1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather 9:58 USA Leather Tanneries 16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore 24:26 Environmental Regulations 38:18 Maverick’s Customer Base 32:51 Tandy Leather...