First Ascent Podcast

Lander local shop owner, author and prolific route developer Jake Dickerson joins me on the pod today! Jake's routes are beloved in the Lander area. With over 50 routes to his name (including routes at the hilariously named 'Jake's World'), he has some great thoughts about how to approach route development in the Lander area.  He is also part owner of Wild Iris Mountain Sports...

Tim DeRoehn is that underground climber that everyone knows. Climbing since the 90s, his history spans Rumney, Boulder, dirtbagging across the west and now residing in Chattanooga, TN.  Today, Tim shares how the culture at Rumney has changed over the last 20+ years, and why he thinks the changes are for the better. He explains his long time love for soloing and details how he navigated the persona...

Former X Games speed climbing gold medalist Aaron Shamy joins the podcast today for a deep conversation about how climbing affects our identities and can influence us to become better members of society. A longtime local of American Fork outside of Salt Lake City, Aaron is a member of the LDS church and also shares about how his faith forms his approach to life, and how his religion is seen within...

Longtime friend of the pod Ethan Edwards joins me today to chat about injuries, retrobolting, and the importance of public lands.  Ethan will detail his surgery and recovery process from a skiing injury, and he’ll share how he’s approached training during this time so that he can be in the best shape possible once he’s completed convalescence.  Then, he’ll tell us all about his retrobolting/rebolt...

Oh how the tables have turned! Jim Lawyer takes the interviewer’s mic and turns the spotlight onto Jay in an interview that will give you more insight into our host than ever before.  You’ll learn about how Jay became obsessed with climbing, what brought him to New Hampshire, the first ascent he felt was worth ‘risking a friendship over’, the number one thing he’d like to change about climbing cul...

Today at First Ascent we honor the incredible Lee Hansche on the one year anniversary of his passing. So many of us are missing Lee today, so we have compiled a highlight reel featuring some of Lee’s best moments from the 96 episodes that he co-hosted on The First Ascent Podcast. You’ll hear clips that reflect Lee’s wisdom, humor, relationships, love of life, and even his fashion sense.  We miss y...

Today Jay is joined by his mom Susan and his sister Suzanne to discuss Susan’s recent backpacking trip to Torres del Paine and Mt. Fitz Roy in Patagonia, and how challenging treks like this are central to her approach to aging.  You’ll hear about:  Why at 72 years old Susan chose to take the ‘Challenging’ trip as opposed to the ‘comfort trip’  The pros and cons Susan has experienced as she’s conti...

Members of the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association are on the pod today to share full details about the current status of climbing and development at Merriam Woods/Russell Crag. Things are in full swing and we need your help! Jay is joined by Chris Vaughn, Katie Vaughn and Mike Gagnon to tell you all about it:  We’ll talk about:  The current state of access to Merriam Woods and Russell Crag...

Author, philosopher, and long time climber Francis Sanzaro is back on the pod to dive into how to manage your mindset (for both climbing and life) during times of loss, grief, overwhelm, or even just less than perfect conditions.  Francis is the author of The Zen of Climbing , a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. His first episode on First Ascent Pod c...

Few people have amassed a more impressive resume in the outdoors than climber, mountaineer, and author Conrad Anker. Just read his Wikipedia page, for starters! Included in Conrad’s accolades are two summits of Everest under his belt (including one where he found George Mallory’s body), a prolific list of first ascents around the globe, and a 26 year history as the lead of the North Face Climbing...

New Hampshire native and author Ty Gagne joins the pod today to discuss the harrowing and heroic history of rescues in the White Mountains. Ty shares his in depth knowledge on some of the most well known rescues in The Whites, and what we can learn from them in regards to decision making, leadership and risk management. We’ll also discuss how the members of search and rescue (many of them voluntee...

Rumney climber Miguel Lopez has been racking up some major sends lately (check out his recents sends of Butt Bongo and Rocketman ) But what has this 5.13 climber been enjoying just as much? Dumpster diving - the exercise of sending routes with 2 or less stars on Mountain Project.  Miguel shares why he started this practice, and how it’s benefited his ‘climbing menu’ as he works to balance his prog...

Dave Groth is one of the undisputed forefathers of Devil’s Lake climbing. With over 40 years of climbing under his belt, he joins me full of tales about the evolution of Devil’s Lake and his legendary climbing exploits across the US and the globe.   You’ll hear about Dave’s experiences at Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon & Waco (where legend Ron Kauk crashed at his apartment!); climbing in the early...

Andy Salo is a longtime climber with roots in Niagara Glen, The Gunks, Rumney and most recently, Rifle. We’ll reminisce about bouldering at The Glen, and then dive into a wide ranging conversation about climbing with small children, how mentors and partners affect your climbing journey, fostering an inclusive climbing culture that makes space for people of all skill levels, and the role that young...

Jim Lawyer joins me today to answer your listener questions!  Jim will tell us about his recovery journey from major back surgery, his experiences at Serra Do Cipó in Brazil, how he balances rock climbing and photography at the crag, and what makes for his favorite kind of climbing day.  Plus, we’ll debate the ethics of ‘Belationships’ and the criteria a person has to meet to be considered a climb...

I just got back from the incredible Red River Gorge and walked away with a new appreciation for the world class climbing there. When I was paging through the guidebook, one name kept popping up: Chris Snyder. Chris was deeply involved in the golden days of development of the Red, and he’s joining me today to share the history of the storied and beloved crag.  We’ll talk about his first impression...

Brian O’Leary just did the first ascent of the hardest mixed climb in New England: Middle Child, an M-13 at the mica mine. We’ll talk about his process for sending the route and what M-13 means in the mixed climbing world. Then, we’ll discuss the complicated ethics that arise when developing on choss.  Plus, Jay helps Brian choose his first 5.13 sport climb to tackle!  Brian is co-founder and owne...

If you’re a climber on Instagram then you’re probably familiar with April Davidson of @yeahapril . With almost 100k followers and multiple brand partnerships, the word ‘influencer’ might immediately come to mind when you think of her. April, however, doesn’t really see herself as an influencer. She has strong opinions on the current state of social media and how it affects us all as climbers, and...

For those of us who think of climbing as a way of life, it can be daunting to address the truth of aging. Chuck Odette, a 5.14 climber who is still cranking hard at 69 years old, is here today to help us get psyched on making climbing a lifelong sport. In this conversation, we’ll get to the bottom of what it takes to keep your climbing game strong as you age.  Chuck shares how he broke through to...

Jay just got back from a fantastic trip to climb Ben Nevis in Scotland! Of the many incredible climbers that Jay met while staying at the CiC Hut , Chris Andrews was a standout for his knowledge and wisdom of the mountain.  Today, Chris joins the pod for a unique chat about Scottish climbing. You’ll hear about the ethics of ice climbing in Scotland, how and why tool usage differs on Scottish climb...

Joel Unema is on the pod today for an insightful talk about training, mindset, and even finger skin care. Joel is a 5.14 trad and sport climber, v14 boulderer, a route developer, a coach for ClimbStrong .  You’ll hear Joel’s thoughts on the importance of route development for a community, why a climber’s identity should be focused on effort instead of talent, and great tips for how to approach you...

Jenny Fischer, CEO of Ocun North America , is here today for a great chat about running a business in the climbing industry, how sponsorship relationships work between climbers and brands, and her own climbing journey.   You’ll hear about her love for the Cochise Stronghold climbing area in Arizona, her thoughts on being a Boulder local, how she found herself making the switch from medicine to run...

Balin Miller joins the pod today to talk about his incredible solo ascent of Reality Bath in the Canadian Rockies, a Wi5+/6- ice climb that hasn’t seen a repeat ascent the very first ascent by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff in 1988.  You’ll hear Balin’s step-by-step accounting of this incredible climb. Plus, he’ll share what it was like to grow up in Alaska as the son of an alpine climber, his tho...

Professional climber Justin Salas has many accolades under his belt, including six national championships and a 2018 world championship. He is a V11 climber outside, and he is also legally blind.  Today, Justin shares how climbing changed his life after he became blind at 14 years old. He’ll also share his thoughts on what it takes to be a professional climber in today’s environment, the ways in w...

This is one you won’t want to miss - Jay’s climbing coach, Galina Parfenov, is on the show today to publicly critique Jay’s climbing!  Galina Parfenov is a full time remote climbing coach that specializes in building individualized training programs for climbers of all ages and ability levels, with a focus on strength training and form analysis through video feedback. She has been climbing and com...