Cycling Hokkaido

This week on Cycling Hokkaido, I finally take on the legendary Shiretoko Pass. After a 7-hour drive from Ishikari I finally arrived in Utoro at 1:30am. In the morning my first stop was the waterfalls along rte.334 just before Benzai Bay. Then it was off to the climb. Along the way, I met some fantastic people, including one cycling I'd only ever spoken to through Instagram DMs. After getting t...

In this episode, I head to Mashike to meet up with a friend who is camping by the coast. Over peanut butter&jelly sandwiches and a Frisbee chuck about, we had a great afternoon. Also in this episode I explore the town's history and what makes Mashike such an interesting destination. I also take a much closer look at Route 231, discussing some of its more challenging tunnels, why they can be intimi...

What does one of Japan's most famous historical figures, Ryoma Sakamoto, have to do with a small town in central Hokkaido? In this episode, we follow the footsteps of Ryoma Sakamoto's family to Urausu and explore the story of the Sakamoto family and the impact they've had on Hokkaido. We also visit Urausu Town Local Museum and Tsurunuma Road Station and Campground. Thank you for listen...

In this episode of the Cycling Hokkaido podcast, Marty is joined by Canadian aunt-and-nephew duo Aerin K. Bowers and Quinn Hoffman. This is a story about family, adventure, and discovering Hokkaido by bicycle. For Quinn, it was his first trip outside of North America. For Aerin it was another chapter in a life already filled with endurance challenges, including swimming the English Channel!! Toget...

This week I'm joined by long-time Sapporo resident Matt Cotter for a conversation about Ainu history, culture, language, and life in modern Hokkaido. The Ainu are the indigenous people of northern Japan, and in this episode we cover a wide range of topics, from some of the darker chapters of Ainu-Japanese history to the ongoing challenges facing Ainu communities today. We also talk about Ainu...

Episode 145 of Cycling Hokkaido features Ryan Hill from Vancouver, BC, who joined me for a ride through the Hokkaido countryside before sitting down to record this episode. We spent the day cycling quiet rural roads through ride paddies during planting season, stopping to check out some mysterious headless Buddha statues, and taking in the views from high above the Sea of Japan coastline. In this...

Welcome back to the Cycling Hokkaido podcast. Today I'm joined by PL and Kristen from Cycle 5 to Survive, a project that's taken them across continents on long-distance cycling adventures with a bigger purpose behind every ride: raising support and awareness for multiple causes over a five-year journey spanning 5 continents. We're going to dig into what it actually takes to plan and execute rides...

In this episode, I follow up on a listener question about group rides in Hokkaido and share some of the information I found while digging into the local cycling scene. If you've been thinking about joining group rides here in Japan, there are more options out there than you might expect. I also take a look at the history of Ranshima Beach and how the area developed over the years, before takin...

I first came across John Swain in one of the Facebook cycling groups when he was planning to ride from Cape Sata to Cape Soya, cycling the full length of Japan from south to north. As it turned out, our schedules lined up, and we were able to sit down for a conversation. One the ended up being far more interesting and wide-ranging than I expected. John's connection to Japan goes back decades,...

What does it really take to leave home and cycle across the world? In this episode of Cycling Hokkaido, I sit down with Daisy & Charlie, two cyclists who set off from England with a simple idea and turned it into a life-changing global adventure. We talk about the realities of long-distance touring: the highs, the breakdowns, the unexpected kindness of strangers, and the moments that make you...

In this episode of the Cycling Hokkaido podcast I give you my review of the 2026 cherry blossom cycling season and get into a whole lot more. I never knew the history of Tsukigata and I'm stoked I rode out to the Tsukigata Maruyama Viewpoint. That one place has completely changed how I look at Tsukigata. Seeing a tree that's 1300 years old has gotta be evergreen, eh? Seeing something that...

Cherry blossom season is finally getting underway in Hokkaido, one of the most anticipated times of the cycling year. In this episode, I talk about what it's actually like to ride during cherry blossom season, where it's worth heading, where you might want to think twice, and what to be careful of out there as the crowds start to build. It's not a route guide, but more a real world loo...

Riding in Hokkaido isn't always about perfect conditions. In this episode, I head out into strong winds and end up learning something unexpected: a great ride doesn't have to be long to be meaningful. That experience leads into a bigger idea, what actually makes Hokkaido different from the rest of Japan. With people and influences from all over the country, Hokkaido has developed a culture...

In this episode of Cycling Hokkaido, I kick things off with a quick story from a recent family trip to Tokyo including a visit to the famous Tsukiji Outer Marker and some of the incredible food you can find there. From there, we get into the reality of spring cycling in Hokkaido and why it's a lot tougher than many riders expect. Spring might seem like the perfect time to get back on the bike,...

Planning to cycle in Hokkaido or elsewhere in Japan but not sure what kind of bike to rent, or where to start? In this episode, I break down the different rental options available across Hokkaido, from casual rides to high-end road and touring set-ups. I also share specific rental services and experiences like Spark Cycling, North Hokkaido Bicycle, Rhythm, Sam's Bikes in Sapporo and Specialize...

Snowshoeing up Onuma-yama in the waning of a Hokkaido winter, I joined a group of 14 experienced snowshoers and quickly found myself pushing to keep up on a climb that was as humbling as it was unforgettable. Through the 7km hike with about 600m of snowshoe hiking I made some new friends and had an excellent day out in nature. Pretty hard to beat that, eh!? As always, I hope you enjoy and find val...

In Ep.133 I talked about the top 5 rides in Hokkaido, but not everyone has the time or ability to travel across the island to ride them. So this week I'm bringing it closer to home with the Top 5 rides you can do starting right from Sapporo. From classic local climbs to scenic countryside roads and epic coastal adventures, these are rides every cyclist living in or visiting Sapporo should expe...

If you're planning cycling trip to Hokkaido, these are five routes you shouldn't miss. In this episode of Cycling Hokkaido, I count down my top five favourite rides on the island - from wild coastal roads to rolling farmland and one of the best mountain passes in Japan. This episode is also a bit of a passport to the podcast . I've previously done full episodes on each of these rides,...

The thaw has come to Hokkaido earlier than expected, and the 2026 cycling season is officially underway. March 2nd marked the first ride of the year, with most roads dry and ready to roll...most, not all. In this episode, Marty talks early-season riding, winter BBQs, the annual return of Tundra Swans, and the legacy of Dr. William S. Clark - the man behind Hokkaido's famous "Boys, be ambi...

In this episode the contrast between modern culture and traditional Japan is very obvious. Furries holding a photo meet and greet day in front of one of Hokkaido's most iconic buildings, Akarenga was quite the sight. The collision of modern subculture and real history made for a most interesting day. So much of Hokkaido's history can be found inside the newly renovated Former Hokkaido Gove...

In this episode Marty talks about the Hokkaido flag. Most people you'll ever come across have never heard of it and I'm not just talking about travelers, locals seem to know nothing about it. But don't worry folks, I'm here to make sure you know all things Hokkaido and are well informed. So, episode 130 of the Cycling Hokkaido podcast is about the Hokkaido flag and the 2026 Olympic...

The 76th Sapporo Snow Festival was excellent. I love that event and this year it did NOT disappoint. The sculptures were stunning, and I ended up learning more than I expected, from the Jomon era to the history behind Aizu Tsuruga Castle. These days the festival feels more like a rock concert than ever, crowded, loud, and full of energy. In this episode of the Cycling Hokkaido podcast, I take you...

That was one wild ride. Heavy snow slammed Hokkaido and travel turned into chaos - especially at Sapporo Station, where cancellations and delays were everywhere. Somehow I still made it to Asahikawa in time for work...and found a much calmer, delicious side of the city waiting there. In this episode: ...surviving Sapporo Starion during major snow disruptions ...winter travel realities in Hokkaido...

One of the wildest weekends, came at the hands of the biggest snowstorm in 21 years here in Hokkaido. Here in Ishikari we had two 50+cm snow days in four days, but the 54cm snow day that rocked Sapporo disrupted everything. JR was shut down, buses stopped running, schools closed, people were forced to camp overnight in the airport and underground shopping malls. It's been a wild week here in S...

In this episode, Marty dives into the Sapporo Snow Festival as it kicks off—then takes a delicious detour into where to find great cheese in Sapporo. He also explores the glory that is Japanese department store basement food floors, from fresh sushi and smoothies to pyramid-shaped watermelons and croissants. There’s also a quick update on life up here in Hokkaido, and how we’re staying active thro...