Chemist Confessions

We review 10 popular East and West barrier creams from Aestura, Dr. Jart, Dieux, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay, and more. We break down everything from texture and finish for different skin types to occlusives like petrolatum and dimethicone, humectants like glycerin, and clinical claims. We also look at which creams are best for "suffering" vs. generally healthy skin 00:00 | 10 Barrier Creams: Ea...

We put three 10% OTC sulfur products to the test! Kate Somerville, the Ordinary, Vichy, and De La Cruz Lab have four completely different takes on sulfur. The chemists discuss which product is the best to use as an acne spot treat!   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514   P...

In paid partnership with VT! VT has given us insider access to the R&D behind their viral Reedle Skincare. In thanks to our community’s curiosity, they’ve decided to share the research behind their reedles, what makes them special, and all the testing they’ve done behind this product line. The chemists also share their experience and recommendation using this uniquely prickly but soothing? Kbe...

We take a deep dive into the science behind Sulfur, a very old and historically prevalent ingredient for acne. We discuss its nonmetal clay origins and characteristic scent, often described as rotten eggs , or like "if a clay farted". The episode covers its classification as an OTC acne ingredient , its proposed catalytic and oil-absorbing mechanisms , and the challenges in its topical formulation...

Everyone at some point in their lives will experience skin irritation. From overeager retinoid use to skin deciding to do a complete 180° just because. When skin is angry, troubleshooting your routine can start to feel stressful and overwhelming . The chemists review why skin reacts the way it does and best practices on how to appease unhappy skin and recalibrate back to your original healthy skin...

We put popular hypochlorous acid sprays to the test! Tower 28, Prequel, and Magic Molecule. Do they live up to the hype for acne, redness, and barrier support? Here’s the chemists’ breakdown. Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.* [https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514](https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514) Rec...

Hypochlorous acid is the trending skincare ingredient for acne, eczema, and irritated skin...... but does it really work?   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

From $20 drugstore finds to $185 luxury formulas, We break down Vitamin C skincare products, textures, and ingredient lists to help you choose what really works for hyperpigmentation, hydration, and beyond.   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Blank Slat...

Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (aka. THD ascorbate) a more stable, more exciting form of vitamin C, or just another quirky chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin. Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/...

It’s the last sunscreen episode of 2025 (we promise!). The chemists have been mulling over all of the recent sunscreen drama. Ultimately, they’ve decided that the most constructive way to address everyone’s concerns is to walk everyone through how to properly shop for sunscreens in 2025. In this guided tour of sunscreens, they will also address concerns on SPF boosters and even how to process the...

Victoria recently decided to commit to 100 days of double cleansing on her oily, acne-prone skin. In those 100 days, she tests 10 cleansing oils and 10 gel cleansers. They discuss their likes, dislikes, and surprise discoveries amongst these formulas. Ultimately, the chemists’ goal in this experiment is to answer the question, “Should you be double cleansing every day?” Additionally, they hope tha...

In this episode, we put five popular vitamin C serums featuring 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid to the test: Beauty of Joseon Light on Serum, Elf C+E+Feruic Acid Serum, Olay Vitamin C Brightening Serum,  Innisfree Green Tean Enzyme Vitamin C, and Numbuz:n 5+. This is a wild category of products. Unlike the CE Ferulic dupes, the range is far and wide in between! From texture critiques (why so sticky, Elf?)...

Is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid truly a gentler, more stable form of vitamin C, or just a shiny chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin. Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended...

In this extended 30 for 30 finale, we review 30 chemical sunscreens across drugstore, mid-tier, international, and luxury categories. breaking down textures, performance, pilling, greasy finishes, and even surprise standouts like Banana Boat Light as Air. Perfect for anyone struggling to find their next go-to SPF! Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase throug...

We’re back for our third year of the 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge where we test 30 sunscreens in 30 days. In part 1, we discuss the mineral sunscreens. This category is divided into mineral fluids and mineral lotions. We rate them from worst, meh, noteworthy, and best based on their texture and finish. Overall, we’ve found this category to be much improved! Let’s dive into our mineral sunscreen j...

One of the top questions we get on sunscreen is - I want to layer foundation with my sunscreen is that okay? What does it mean for the level of sun protection I’m getting? That’s a pretty complex question and thankfully - we have some great studies and recommendations to share. *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Pr...

Ever since we did round 1 of our CE Ferulic dupe tests, round 2 has been highly requested. This time around, the ascorbic acid serum contenders are: La Roche Posay Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, Wild Fleur 15% Pure Vitamin C + Xanthophyll - Marigold Brightening Serum, Cerave Vitamin C Serum, Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C Face Serum, Prequel Lucent C, and Vichy 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum We in...

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is famously known as the only rigorously tested antioxidant for age prevention. Yet this active is also notoriously known for its quirky characteristics in the classic CE Ferulic serum format. This unstable hot dog water has often generated concerns for using it long term. In this episode, the chemists discuss ascorbic acid’s stability and compare vitamin C in water-based...

It’s finally getting warmer and this means that we’ve already started testing our 2025 #30for30SunscreenChallenge tests! So this feels like a great time to do a special sunscreen news roundup episode. In this episode, we discuss why you can’t buy Asian sunscreen formulas as easily anymore, what tariffs might mean for the sunscreen landscape, and interesting studies on sunscreen application. Oh! An...

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following our cleanser science episode, we tested 5 of the topselling Kbeauty cleansing oils so you don’t have to, which include: Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Anua, Ma:Nyo, and Haru Haru. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

On the topic of cleansers, a lot of the questions the chemists get are about the cleansing routine. One of the common questions is, “Can you just use water to cleanser your face?” The great thing is, this scenario has actually been tested (which is very rare). The chemists discuss the findings and what things to consider if you happen to be using just water to rinse your face. An unusual deep dive...

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ceramide deep dive, the chemists review 4 of the most popular drugstore moisturizers so you don’t have to, which include: Vanicream, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and La Roche Posay Lipikar. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

The chemists are going down the ceramides rabbit hole again because many of you have asked, “Which ceramide is best?” The chemists explain the different types of ceramides and what the research says on which one you should be targeting in your skincare. 

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ectoin deep dive, the chemists review two ectoin products so you don’t have to. Products were chosen to showcase the diverse landscape of ectoin skicnare. This episode was recorded before the launch of Prequel’s latest Ectoin cream. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience fr...

Many of you asked about ectoin so the chemists went down the research rabbit hole. Ectoin is a new kid on the block with some surprising data in the skin barrier and hydration realm. The chemists talk about what it is, what it does for skin, and whether or not it’s better than niacinamide.