Big Closets Small Planet

A few years ago Professor Jason Hickel was invited to speak during an annual Textile Exchange conference. Why was that invitation noteworthy? Because Jason is an advocate for degrowth in fashion. Fast forward to 2024 and Textile Exchange  released the report Reimagining Growth Landscape Analysis. Perhaps Jason's intervention struck a chord? In this conversation, Michael speaks with Beth Jensen fro...

Ken Pucker , former COO at Timberland and now Professor of Practice at Tufts University , sustainable industry analyst, opinion columnist and critic, views himself as a completely independent voice when it comes to issues concerning fashion and sustainability. During last year's Climate Action Week, Michael and Ken discussed a number of topics, including his views regarding the rise and negative i...

The idea that the fashion and apparel industry can continue to grow by employing a green-growth model has been questioned by many leading thinkers. It is argued that for the industry to reduce its emissions at the pace and scale required and to operate within the planetary boundaries, overproduction and overconsumption must stop. This is especially challenging because, as critics explain, the domi...

The Kappahl Group is a signatory in STICA's Company Climate Action Program. That is why we invited Elisabeth Peregi , CEO of the Kappahl Group, for a conversation about how a CEO from a midsized, privately owned apparel brand understands the challenges and opportunities with climate action. Michael and Elisabeth discuss if it's possible to achieve financial growth and reduce emissions simultaneous...

During STICA's 2024 Climate Action Week, Maxine Bédat and her colleagues from the NRDC and the New York State Assembly updated us on the arguments for and status of the New York Fashion Act. Since then more has happened. Similar bills have been introduced in California and Massachusetts. In this conversation, Michael asks Maxine to provide an update on the status of the bills, including how they a...

During the past few years, a number of NGO campaign organizations, sometimes referred to as watchdogs, have set their sights on accelerating climate action in the apparel industry. Michael sat down Ruth MacGilp from Action Speaks Louder and Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution to discuss what they want brands and other stakeholders to be doing, their complementary methods for getting them to do...

According to a recent report by the European Environment Agency, the greenhouse gas emissions from textile consumption in the EU was 355kg CO2e per person (based on 2022 data). So how does the EU Commission , which is responsible for developing and implementing the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, think about climate action and textiles? Michael invited Matjaž Malgaj , the Coordi...

Hakan Karaosman , whose mother was a garment worker, is a Professor in supply chain management from Cardiff University . Six years ago, Hakan and his colleagues asked "Where are the workers' voices in the discussions and decisions about climate strategies?" At that time no one was looking into fairness, inclusion, and justice in the context of climate action. Since then his research has uncovered...

The Laudes Foundation is one of the few philanthropic organizations that funds sustainability initiatives that specifically impact the apparel industry. The Foundation is also actively promoting the need for a Just Transition. That is why Michael Schragger invited Amol Mehra , human rights lawyer and Director of Industry Programmes at the Laudes Foundation , to explain the Foundation's definition,...

Already today global warming is having an impact on companies, workers and communities in countries where a majority of global production currently takes place. In particular, heat stress is increasing. But while brands, buyers and manufacturers set targets to reduce their emissions, do they understand the impacts of heat stress on workers today and will they take sufficient action as this problem...

The Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) has become a central player in setting and implementing the apparel industry's decarbonization agenda. To achieve this, Aii conducts industry analysis, sets industry targets, engages brands, suppliers, philanthropic and financial institutions all with the aim to support brands and manufacturers to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions. In this conversation, Micha...

Lutz Walter founded and leads the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (Textile ETP) , a network of research and technology experts from the textile sector, including representatives from universities and technology centers from all over Europe. Lutz is a thoughtful thinker and analyst when it comes to the future of the European textile industry, and so we wanted to...

To reach their greenhouse gas emissions reduction targets and to transform their businesses, companies are hoping they can increasingly replace revenues from their current business models with revenues from circular business models – that is repair, resale or subscription services. The theory is that these models are better for the climate because they extend the life of garments and replace the n...

The Good Fashion Fund (GFF) was launched in 2018 to demonstrate that an impact fund that supports textile suppliers in their sustainability journey, especially midsize manufacturers operating in tiers 1-3, can result in substantial climate and environmental improvements, positive social impacts and financial returns for investors. We invited those managing this fund, Bob Assenberg and Jayanth Kash...

Nicole Rycroft from Canopy believes "next-gen" materials are to forests and climate as renewables are to fossil fuels and climate. Her organization's strategy is to remove the incentive to cut down forests, especially endangered forests, which play a crucial role in climate action. According to Nicole, man-made cellulosic fibers are the third largest fiber type used in apparel (think rayon, modal,...

The H&M Group , a STICA signatory, is by far the largest emitter of greenhouse gases among those companies participating in STICA's Company Climate Action Program. From a sustainability perspective, H&M has been criticized for its business model, while in the context of climate action it has received praise for its climate leadership. Michael invited two of H&M's climate experts, Henrik Sundberg a...

In on-going discussions about who is responsible for bearing the cost of sustainability investments in the supply chain, one issue emerges repeatedly: that there are power imbalances between buyers and manufacturers and that more equal partnerships are needed if manufacturers are going to be able to invest in more sustainable solutions. It is therefore not surprising that this debate continues in...

Experts working with the Apparel Impact Institute are developing the first quantitative performance evaluation benchmarks for apparel and textiles in order to clearly compare the performance of one facility vs another in the areas of energy and emissions. Kurt Kipka , Chief Impact Officer at Apparel Impact Institute , and Phil Patterson , founder of Colour Connections , are optimistic that this ap...

We wanted a broader perspective on the state of decarbonization in apparel supply chains from a practitioner who is working actively in this field. So we turned to Peter Ford . Peter spent the past six years at the H&M Group, starting out managing factory-level environmental sustainability in Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar, before overseeing global decarbonisation implementation and the Green Fashi...

Is our current for-profit economic model a root cause of many of today's sustainability challenges generally, and specifically in apparel and fashion? Dr. Jennifer Hinton, author and Post-Doctoral Fellow at The Centre for Environmental and Climate Science at University of Lund , has concluded so. She studies how societies relate to profit and how this relationship affects global environmental and...

Ken Pucker , former  Timberland  COO and current Professor at the  Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy  at  Tufts , recently published a series of pieces critiquing the circular agenda for fashion. In this content rich interview, Ken explains the history of how market-led voluntary solutions became the norm and the rise of what he calls Sustainability Inc., how circularity in the fashion industry...

Now that climate action has rapidly moved to the top of the apparel industry's agenda, it is crucial that the industry moves from intention to action - and fast. The latest analysis indicates what we need to do, but the 1 trillion dollar question is how much capital will be required to do it. Enter the Apparel Impact Institute (AII) and Fashion for Good (FFG) , who have now weighed in regarding ho...

Forests play a crucial role in promoting biodiversity, removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and supporting livelihoods, especially in poorer countries. But because wood is the basis for so many of our products, the pressure to exploit forests, usually in unsustainable ways, continues to increase. What does this have to do with the fashion industry? A significant percentage of the fibres use...

It's been nearly a decade since Patagonia, Walmart and a number of other brands, retailers, manufacturers and NGOs established the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) , an innovative industry collaboration. As the coalition's website states, its vision is "an apparel, footwear, and textiles industry that produces no unnecessary environmental harm and has a positive impact on the people and communi...

Sweden has a reputation for being a sustainability leader in many areas, so you can imagine how curious we were to learn about a newish proposal from the current Swedish government for a chemical tax on textiles. The proposal was recently made available to stakeholders for comment, and of course, a robust debate has ensued. Is this proposal, as presented today, going to lead to a reduction in harm...