Vienna Past and Present

What happens when you set off on an expedition to find an ice-free passage east of Russia, only to discover that the Arctic is, in fact, absolutely full of ice? In this first part of our two-parter, we travel back to 1872 and the Austro-Hungarian North Pole Expedition that would lead to the discovery of Franz Josef Land. Carmen and Stephen delve into the ambitious plans behind the voyage, marvel a...

What happens when Stephen takes the day off and Carmen suddenly finds herself interviewing a public transport expert? Well, apparently you call in the next generation! In this special bonus episode, Carmen is joined by her cousin's son Paul, who knows a frankly impressive amount about Vienna's trams, U-Bahn and trains. Together they travel from Vienna's first horse-drawn tram in 1865 through smoky...

Summer has arrived, which means it's time for the next installment of our Vienna Survival Guide. This time, Carmen walks Stephen through the finer points of surviving everyday Viennese life: why you must always open a window for some fresh air, only to immediately complain "es zieht!" (there's a draft!); our complicated relationship with air conditioning; the unwritten rules of elevator etiquette;...

It's time for another Zeitgeist episode: a grab bag of Vienna, history, and whatever else managed to distract us this week. We start with an update on everyone's favorite controversial statue: Sexy Karl. After his dramatic encounter with vandals, we ask the important historical questions llike whether the ancient Egyptians had the right idea by completely erasing their least favorite pharaoh from...

In the second part of our Red Vienna series, the grand experiment collides with political reality. We follow the rise of Engelbert Dollfuß, the emergence of Austrofascism, and the escalating tensions that culminated in the Austrian Civil War of 1934. Along the way, Karl-Marx-Hof goes from model housing project to battlefield, and Vienna's socialist dream comes to a dramatic end. Of course, we can'...

What happens when a city decides to reinvent everyday life from the ground up? In this episode, we dive into Red Vienna—an ambitious socialist experiment that transformed the city in the 1920s with massive housing projects, public baths, and a bold vision of "luxury for everyone." From the monumental Karl-Marx-Hof to the world of communal laundries, we explore how Vienna tried to build a better so...

Thinking of moving to Vienna? Already here but still confused? In this grab-bag episode, we present your unofficial Vienna Survival Guide—covering the less-obvious, entirely unwritten rules that no one explains until you've already broken them. From mastering the sacred art of lüften to emotionally preparing yourself for shops being closed on Sundays (yes, all of them), we've got you covered. We a...

The Florentine Diamond is one of Europe's most famous missing jewels—or at least, it was. In this episode, we trace the extraordinary journey of a 137-carat diamond from Renaissance Florence and the Medici dynasty to the Habsburgs, the collapse of empire, and a century-long disappearance that turns out not to have been a disappearance at all. Along the way, we meet Empress Zita, who doesn't just h...

If you saw some nuns escaping a retirement home to return to their former castle, what would you do? If you're at all unsure, you should hear the story of the nuns of Castle Goldenstein, the recent *darlings* of Austrian and international news. With low-speed car chases, hugging police officers, Stephen's stuffy sick voice, and social media stardom -- this episode really has it all. And the younge...

In our first Halloween episode, we sink our teeth into the true story of the vampire panic that swept through the Habsburg borderlands during the Age of Enlightenment—because nothing says "reason and progress" like mass fear of the undead. It all begins in 18th-century Serbia, where a shoeless peasant was said to have crawled out of his grave to reclaim his footwear… and maybe a little blood. From...

This week, we're freefalling into the story of Felix Baumgartner, Austria's very own daredevil skydiver who leapt from the stratosphere (literally). Along the way, Stephen valiantly attempts some German words with mixed results, Carmen learns a few things she probably should have already known, and together they try—and mostly fail—to understand what drives someone to jump out of perfectly good ai...

In this episode, we uncover the strange and fascinating life of Wilhelm Reich, a once-promising Vienna-trained psychoanalyst whose career took a sharp turn into uncharted territory. From a scandalous youth and mentorship under Freud to his unorthodox theories on "orgastic potency," Reich's ideas often teetered between groundbreaking and eyebrow-raising. We follow him across the Atlantic, where he...

This week, we're headed to the seaside! Or at least, as close as Vienna gets— we're talking about the Gänsehäufel, the beloved island in the Danube that's been offering sun, swims, and skin (lots of it) for over a century. We dig into the evolution of this uniquely Viennese summer escape: from its early days as a kind of naturist commune founded by Florian Berndl, to a city-led takeover (with a su...

Try as we might to talk about literally anything else, Eurovision keeps pulling us back in. Are we closet fans? Maybe. Probably. OK, fine—yes. In this Zeitgeist episode, we set out to cover a range of current topics... but then Austria won Eurovision again, and suddenly we're back, clumsily covering a topic we know little about. But we do know that  JJ has officially captured our hearts. Stephen w...

This week, we step onto one of Vienna's most curious bits of street furniture: the humble street scale. Scattered across the city in over 150 locations, these coin-operated relics have no real reason to still exist—yet somehow, they do. We dig into their surprisingly rich history, from imperial times to today's random encounters with your own body weight on the sidewalk. Along the way, Stephen and...

In this episode, we're talking all things  Arnold . After watching the Netflix documentary Arnold , we came away with a new-found respect for the man who went from a small town to global superstardom. But we don't stop there—we dig into a few stories the doc left out, discuss what makes Arnold such a uniquely Austrian export, and explore the concept of Schmäh (that special Viennese blend of charm...

Long before Dubai put ski slopes in the desert, Vienna had its own indoor skiing dream: the Schneepalast (Snow Palace). Opened in 1927 as the world's first permanent hall for year-round skiing, it was the brainchild of Dagfinn Carlsen—a man who clearly thought no idea was too ambitious. With two ski slopes, a toboggan run, and even a ski jump, Carlsen envisioned competitions, lessons, and endless...

In this Zeitgeist episode, we're sticking our heads in the sand and focusing on the real hard-hitting topics: sausage stands and football. It's the zeitgeist we want to be living in. We explore the Würstelstand as a cornerstone of Viennese cultural heritage, and Stephen quizzes Carmen on Viennese expressions—only to question her credentials when she doesn't quite pass the test (but at least she's...

Why is Vienna considered the ultimate playground for spies? We start with the Habsburgs' surprising innovations in spycraft and how Metternich made "the walls listen" with his sophisticated network of informants. From there, we uncover how the city evolved into the espionage capital of the world, from its Cold War heyday to modern cloak-and-dagger operations.  And for those with espionage aspirati...

In this Zeitgeist episode, we're feeling festive as we dive into holiday traditions from around the world. Carmen and Stephen compare the Christkind to Santa Claus and explore the wild world of St. Nicholas and Krampus—because what's Christmas without a satanic helper? But we don't stop at Austria and the U.S.; there's a delightful sidebar about how Christmas is celebrated in Japan, from fried chi...

In the second and final part of our deep dive into Jörg Haider, we explore his fall from grace and untimely death. Along the way, we consider whether Carinthia might just be the Texas of Austria, discuss the correct pronunciation of Phaeton, and dissect the many rumors that swirled around his tragic end. We also examine Haider's lasting legacy, unpacking the cult of personality that mythologizes h...

In our second Zeitgeist episode, we're diving into what's happening in the world—and in our lives—right now. We break down how Austrian elections work and the latest on coalition talks, before taking a detour to discuss why on Earth the Detroit Lions have made the Austrian news.  Responding to a listener email from Joanna, Carmen shares a review of the Christmas markets she's already visited (impr...

This week, we dive into the rise of Austria's far-right FPÖ party and its controversial leader, Jörg Haider, whose meteoric ascent left a lasting mark on Austrian politics. As we explore the twists and turns of Austrian politics and Haider's influence, Stephen's dog Bo voices his disapproval loudly in the background. We also take some classic Viennese detours, including the city's obsession with a...

What does an assassination attempt have to do with the height of Vienna's City Hall? More than you'd expect. In this episode, we uncover the strange connection between political violence and architecture, with a surprise appearance from Mexico along the way. Stephen and Carmen agree that, when it comes to underground enclosures, they'd much rather explore a wine cellar than a crypt filled with sku...

Welcome to our first-ever Zeitgeist episode, where we chat about what's happening in Vienna, the world, and in our lives right now. This week, we're tackling everything from single-use plastics and Cybertrucks to the terrorist threat that forced Taylor Swift to cancel her Vienna shows. Plus, we attempt to introduce the German word Sommerloch to the American lexicon—because let's face it, the Engli...