Hairspring

Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original.   Links Mentioned: Glashütte Original: https://www.glashuette-origin...

In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport?...

Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & Cie, where to find a JCK-half-off, or even...

It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans.  Greubel Hand Made 2: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2 Speedmaster Intro: https://www.hodinkee.com/a...

Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Historic context, production numbers, differentiatio...

Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent misuse. Finally, an Only Wrist to help out AP. ...

Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what’s wrong with influencers, views on condition,...

In a bit of a first, this week is a philosophical rumination. What does it really mean to be into watches and why the hell should any of us be where we are? If you want to be a professional and make it a career, what options are available to you? And what’s the difference between a dealer and a retailer anyway? Erik & Max attempt to answer and so much more. Plus, if you’re bartending and want...

Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, Elegantes, and Klings.  Links Mentioned: Max’s G...

Erik & Max attempt to defy the tropes of the podcast, opting for something a bit out of character. This week they attempt to give some examples of non-independent modern watches which are quite compelling. There are picks under 10K, all the way up to crazy values. Plus, a bit of a quick auction chat. From an Egyptian President's Day-Date to a Zenith G381, it’s all in here.  Links Mentioned: ht...

There is no way in which to avoid values when talking about serious watches; this week Erik & Max lean into that fact by building a collection around a bit of lighthearted speculation. Yes, that is faux pas behavior, but it is also a ton of fun. As a little bonus, they reflect on a year becoming more engrossed in watches to draw some resolutions for the coming year. Finally, an Only Wrist for...

Erik & Max embark on a myth-busting soirée which knows no bounds. Is Rolex a Charity? Why was the platinum Day-Date never fluted? Should hands always match? Was the helium escape valve invented when Rolex worked with Comex? Hint: it wasn't Was the Minute Repeater invented for a blind Patek Philippe client? Plus, if you're dating at 36, what should you wear? Links Mentioned: Anault Spying: http...

In this episode, Erik & Max bring back the awards ceremony that is the Balance Cocks in a follow-up to our Most Significant Independents of the Last 25 Years episode (34). This is the same format, just with a much wider scope. Over the last 25 years of watchmaking, we award 1. The Most Beautiful Watch 2. The Ugliest 3. The Greatest Calibre 4. The Greatest Depreciation 5. The Greatest Value Wat...

Erik & Max pause for a moment to contemplate the last year or two of the deep enthusiast watch market and where things are at this moment. This includes both a macro overview with broad trends and a finer, nuanced take on specific models. In the words of Niels Bohr, ‘It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.’ Nonetheless, there’s a bit of that as well. While they normal...

Erik & Max take a listener question to the extreme: how do you go about learning in watches? Where should you be pulling information from: mainstream media, retailers, auction houses, or even forums? This episode is a deep dive on how to structure learning, or at least how one might approach it. Also, has Gronefeld lost it with the Manueel? Plus, what does the most boring man in the world wear...

You asked, here are the answers. This week, Erik & Max read out and discuss your blistering hot takes, sourced from Instagram. The conversation could not be more varied, from snowflake vs Mercedes to 2499 vs 3970 including stops at Zenith’s 3019, bund straps, and ‘Should full rotors even have display casebooks?’ It’s all here, with an Only Wrist for an art thief.  Links Mentioned: Snowcone Han...

Much as they shy away from topical events, Erik & Max have to ask the obvious this week—but perhaps not in the way you think. While the conversation does come to rest on the Cubitus, this week’s chat is centered around chronicling the last two decades of slow and steady decline at one of the world’s greatest watchmaking houses. It’s not a roast; it’s a plea. From machining marks left bare on t...

Erik & Max have a surprisingly deep conversation around some devious watch-based would you rather questions. Plus, what do we make of the WoS Hodinkee move? Independent vs modern is addressed, LF vs Journe, and many other topics. This was intended to be quite unserious but it wound up trending that way. Finally, what should an English rock musician who appreciates US culture wear?  Links Menti...

Erik & Max are attempting the least-searchable list ever: what are the most un-iconic watches of all time? We all hate browsing listings and auctions only to see iconic watch after iconic watch. It’s meaningless as an adjective. This week’s episode pokes fun at the phrase by finding great watches that no one could possibly call iconic, alternative that are better just not definitely not icons....

Erik & Max finally sync up with Sylvain Berneron to discuss his watches and just why they're being received so distinctly to anything else in the independent space right now. However, the chat doesn't just revolve around Berneron the brand, but Sylvain as a collector, the difficulty of branching out on your own, motorcycles, mid-century Patek, and, yes, even that fracas at Geneva Watch...

Erik & Max are reviving a fan favorite segment: watches that aren’t widely produced, but also have zero attention being shined their way. There are watches everyone loves. Then there are watches that more people should, if only they were more known. This episode is about the latter category. Many, many obscure models here to go researching and learning on. Plus, what should an F-22 pilot wear...

We all know the terms. We all know they’re BS. Today, Erik & Max talk about them no-holds-barred. We assess the hype cycles that are created around watches, the language of persuasion, and how you should go about being aware of these things while making watch decisions. Plus, TAG now have F1. How should they go about it? Links Mentioned: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-greg-y...

Erik & Max have another first here, an awards ceremony. This is not the GPHG though, we’re covering a quarter century; go big or go home. Prepare for a dissection of early Journe, stories of a smashed Philippe Dufour, unexpected sales strategies, and descriptions of Max Büsser’s extreme handsomeness. We’re calling these the Balance Cocks. The first of, hopefully, many here.  Links Mentioned: C...

This is Erik & Max’s first episode recorded together in person, for which they’ve saved a crowd favorite: Q&A. Yes, it’s time to answer your asks. Topics range from watches that surprised us to underrated vintage picks under 10K, the best skeleton QPs, real Chinese watchmaking, and the best independent at 200K. Plus, did Lange copy Movado? This is a relentless torrent of watch opinions wit...

This week is a first: a monobrand episode, but not as you might think. We are all given to love the Speedmaster, but there’s a whole world of Omega outside the Moonwatch that is waiting to meet you. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the forgotten gems and rather beautiful references that stand in the shadow of Speedmasters. Just as some of the greatest-ever APs are not Royal Oaks, so too a...