The Cutting Edge

Jim Donini first climbed in Patagonia way back in 1974, and in 1976 he made the first ascent of Torre Egger. Now nearly 75 years old, he's still at it, exploring the wild mountains near his summer home on the shores of Lago General Carrera in Chile. Just back from another Patagonia season, during which he bagged yet another unclimbed peak, Jim spoke with AAJ editor Andy Anderson about the beautifu...

In December, Conrad Anker led a team of North Face athletes to Queen Maud Land, an area of Antarctica filled with spectacular granite spires. In this episode, Conrad describes the big new route he put up with Jimmy Chin on Ulvetanna, the highest peak in the area, as well as dealing with the cold, the team dynamic on expeditions, and the environmental impacts of climbers. The Cutting Edge is presen...

Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has visited the Kishtwar area of India five times in the past seven years, making numerous first ascents. In late 2017, he returned to India with Thomas Huber and Julian Zanker to climb a direct new route up Cerro Kishtwar, an extremely difficult mountain that he had already climbed once before! In this episode, Stephan talks about Cerro Kishtwar, his climbing partne...

Until 2010, the spectacular mountains of India's Zanskar Range had been off-limits to climbers for generations. This fall, American climbing guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva took advantage of newly available permits and made the first ascent of a stunning, 21,309-foot peak: Rungofarka. The AAJ's Andy Anderson spoke with Alan to get all the details. This episode of the Cutting Edge is spons...

In late August, Will Stanhope and Leo Houlding linked the three biggest faces on the Howser Towers in British Columbia's Bugaboos, climbing them all free in 23 and a half hours. Will had been dreaming about this unprecedented enchainment for eight years. The AAJ's Chris Kalman spoke with Will about the planning for the linkup, how to free climb so much ground so quickly, and the primal energy boos...