The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing 09.08.2018 1:10:10 ↓

In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38 01.08.2018 1:16:06 ↓

In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.

TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing 25.07.2018 1:09:40 ↓

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.

TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps 27.06.2018 1:19:59 ↓

In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.

TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching 02.05.2018 1:08:34 ↓

In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.

TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers 25.04.2018 55:58 ↓

Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective. 

TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program 28.03.2018 1:16:22 ↓

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment 10.01.2018 1:13:26 ↓

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers 14.12.2017 1:08:22 ↓

This interview is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they feel like, how to get a proper diagnosis, and mostly… how to make the injuries go away.

TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes 16.11.2017 1:11:06 ↓

Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our social media presence, and he's added Online Climbing Trainer to his resume. Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and currently living in his van on the road. He's climbed up to 5....

TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries 19.10.2017 1:12:47 ↓

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.