The Surfer’s Library

Billy Jack reads chapter 17 through 21 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to...

Billy Jack is back this week reading from chapter 13 and continues through chapter 16 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want to help support the podcast you can visi...

Billy Jack picks up reading on chapter 8 and continues through chapter 12 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://bu...

Billy Jack reads chapters 4 through 7 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurfe...

Billy Jack kicks off summer 2026 and season 2 of the podcast reading Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This episode we read chapters one through three. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you wan...

Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly died in the process. After barely surviving the wipeout, he realized he’d pushed it as far as he could and decided to walk away from big-wave surfing for good. This is the story.

Today we wrap up part two in a supersized episode in which Billy reads the second half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. We pick up with Dewey Weber, Tubesteak Tracy and Miki Dora as they define the 50's surfer style... Enjoy!

Today in part one of a two part series Billy reads the first half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. The History of Surfing is a comprehensive and meticulously researched chronicle that explores surfing's evolution from its ancient Polynesian origins to its modern global presence. Richly illustrated with over 250 rare photographs, the book offe...

Today Billy continues reading from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf cult...

Today Billy reads from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf culture.

This episode Billy reads The South Swell, the first chapter from the book Big Wednesday by Denny Aaberg and John Milius.

In this special episode we bid farewell to two surfing greats, Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson.

Today Billy Jack reads a story told by pioneer big wave surfer Ricky Grigg from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long.

Today Billy Jack reads Part 1 of John Severson‘s 1964 book Modern Surfing Around The World.

Today, Billy reads two stories, To Experience Surfing and When Nothing Else Matters, from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast.

Today Billy Jack reads the short story Mexico from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf.

Today Billy Jack reads the story Long Day from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf

On December 22, 1943, Woody Brown drove across the island to the North Shore with a gung-ho high school surfer named Dickie Cross. It would be Dickie Cross's last day. Today Billy Jack reads from The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories by John Long

Today, Billy Jack reads Sixty6 from Drew Kampion's book The Lost Coast – Stories from the Surf. Tune in and experience this captivating tale from one of our tribes most celebrated storytellers. ​