The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques. But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better. They need a better understanding of the move itself... ANALYZE AND IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://lin...

When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me. There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13. It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part. But if you don’t have this on...

The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early. The best climbers put themselves into send position with fewer working attempts, and know...

There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now. I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost...   Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.   This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy the...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed.  This episode originally...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know wh...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future cl...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quan...

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.  Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.  Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through...

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book! 

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses . Sign up for Joy's newsletter . Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training...

This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys...

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the pl...

Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show...

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan...

Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups.  But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid c...

Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back.   Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! ...

Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.   Watch the film.   Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Pro...

Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.  Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the fil...

Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing.  Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram  and YouTube . Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW At...

Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb.  It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris...

Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community.  Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issue...

Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniq...

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes,...