The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Fingers are pretty important to us.  At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that.  In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.  We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.   You can find Lisa's products and her book...

Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom.  She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles.  Most important, she's an exceptional human.   Wait... 21 consecutive state titles?  Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.   That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year...

Tension Climbing makes wood climbing holds.  Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.  I've long known that I'm a fan of climbing on wood, and I have my reasons, but I've never put even remotely close to as much thought into it as the guys at Tension have.   I sat down with Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth to discuss their products, the reason behind their shapes, what their favorites are, and...

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.   Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 3 of 3.   Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I at...

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.   Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 2 of 3.   Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I at...

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.   Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 1 of 3.   Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I at...

We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does.  From his haircut to his hold lines, his videos to his gym designs, Jason is anything but conventional, and that's exactly why he's so compelling.  I needed to know what fueled his creativity, wanted to dig into his process, and secretly just had to see his home wall.   He's been incredibl...

The gang's all here, again!  Our 2nd OFFICIAL full team meeting.  Episode 33, Our Top 2 Sources of Information, was the first.  If you haven't listened to that one... GO DO IT.   In this episode, Paul, Blake, Nate and I discuss the top 2 ways we break through plateaus.  Whether it's mental or physical, unless you're a mutant, you've gotten stuck.  That upward trajectory has slowed to a grinding ha...

Jonah Durham has been very aptly described as "the sweetest kid ever".  You could also call him a crusher.  Either way, nobody that has spent time with Jonah will argue.   During my recent 9 month roadtrip I ran into Jonah in several climbing areas.  We recorded a conversation while in Hueco Tanks this winter after I noticed an interesting contrast of sorts in Jonah's climbing.  A few weeks ago in...

If there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist", I'm it.  I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition.  Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn.  Neely is a nutritionist, climber, and host of the TrainingBeta podcast.  I've known Neely for some time, but had never talked nutrition with her.  She spoke at the recent ClimbStrong Coaching Conference, and I appreciated her simple tak...

Another example of the extras that we'll be giving to the patrons!  Nate and I noticed a trending topic online that was causing waves.  Jon Glassberg recently wrote a blog for La Sportiva titled "How To Climb V15".  He begins the article with this statement:   "My hypothesis: Any climber with an athletic disposition, dedication, time, appropriate training and proper diet can climb V10. Climbing do...

BONUS EPISODE!  We're giving this one to you free as an example of what you could get as a patron of the podcast.  In a month or so we'll be creating 1 or 2 "patron only" episodes as a bonus for our patrons.  If you were thinking about becoming a patron, now is the time! Special thanks to our Facebook Community Group for the great questions! You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com We don't tweet...

Honorary Cohost Steve Bechtel has a new book out.  Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance.  If you write your own training plans, and still have a hard time sticking to your plan, this is the book for you.  Steve outlines a deceptively simple way of organizing your training that fits nicely into real lives.... something most of us desperately need....

Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there.  Myths that people cling to.  New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through.  Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.   For this episode Nate and I sat down in the Red River Gorge last fall and discussed a few of these trends, particularly the ones we like the least. We don't tweet.  We scream like eagl...

For this episode we sat down in the Red River Gorge with coach and trainer Dan Mirsky to talk about the redpoint process, but the conversation went elsewhere, and we uncovered something interesting.  What resulted is a conversation that essentially boils down to: Do what you're motivated and inspired to do, even if it doesn't make sense.   You can find and work with Dan at The Front Training Room...

Today we're releasing our new Proven Plans... an option that lands between our simple eBooks and our completely customized plans.  These Proven Plans allow you to work with us in our mobile app, and they allow us to give you customizations and drills that aren't available in our eBooks. The eBooks are extremely popular for good reason, but many of us need a more personal interaction and something...

Tanner Wilson is a 22 year old climber from the middle of Ohio who just went on his first extended road trip of over 5 weeks. Originally he had planned on one big goal, but just before the trip he made a mature decision and changed his mind about what he wanted to accomplish.  Because of the new goals, Tanner learned several important lessons... ones that take most of us many trips and seasons to...

Our very first live in front of an audience, live streaming on facebook recording!  With the number of things that could have gone wrong, this went REALLY well.  We talk with Dave Chancellor of the famous So iLL brothers, and Yusuf Daneshyar, co owner of the Climb So iLL gym in St. Louis about how we all define success and the different paths we took to get there.   Thanks to Climb So iLL for havi...

Why only 2?  Because there are 4 of us in this episode!  The whole team sits down for our first Board Meeting together, and discusses the top 2 places where we each get our information.  The internets are full of bullshit information, so it's hard to know when what you're reading has any sort of integrity or validity.  We break it down the way we do, with lots of laughs in between, and let you kno...

Justen doesn't need an introduction, but if you've been hiding under a rock, he's an accomplished climber and coach who has worked with a veritable who's who of American climbing elite.  Justen is known for his ability to get into a climbers head and coax more out of them.  I wanted to give you something different, so we don't necessarily dig into those things that you might hear about in his conv...

It's here.  The one you've been waiting for.  The Moon Board Episode.  And that's not all.  We recorded the conversation, sent it to Ben Moon, and then Skyped him in to get his opinions.  Legend.   The facts, the myths, what you're doing right, and where you're going wrong.   Is the Moon Board the best training tool out there?  Listen and decide for yourselves.  Then stop clogging my instagram fee...

JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway.  We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.   You can find Jonathan at http://www.jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing.  Defin...

Skin Care.  You're probably not doing it right.  Even if you are, there is much to learn from this podversation with Justin and Andi Brown from Rhino Skin Solutions .  We talk skin types, how to use each of their individual products (and how not to), and how and why they work.   These products have been a game changer for me, and I believe that they can be for you as well.  Rhino is giving our lis...

This an extremely rare "catch and release" episode.  Nate and I were in Austin for a workshop at Crux Climbing Center, and I saw the news that Cody Roth had completed the FA of "Me I Eat Dust", which at 14+ is the hardest sport climb in Texas.  However, it was his comments about the idea that while he isn't in the shape he was in his 20's, he's climbing better, that got me interested.  I hit Cody...

I know, I know.  You're getting antsy.  Me too.  Thing is, I've been bouldering.  A lot.  And honestly, I'm still on schedule, so there.  Unless you guys push us to our $100 per month goal at our Patreon page , and then you'll get 3 each month, which means more work for me, and more utter happiness for you. But hold off on your dismay... today we're talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach,...