The Power Company Climbing Podcast

I'm back in the States and back on the podcast grind. I apologize for the absence. Sort of, but not really. I was rock climbing, and that's gonna win over podcast every time. ANYWAY... Today's guest is Emily Moore, the Events Manager for the Climbing Wall Association. Last spring I attended the CWA Summit and was blown away by the event. It's what I always hoped Outdoor Retailer would be, but neve...

We went a little overboard on our Oz Tour 2019 Tee Shirts, so we decided to give a few away if you can answer a few questions. I scoured the depths of Australian Climbing Trivia to find these 11 questions - some gimmes and some damned hard.  Here's how it works: 1. Screenshot this podcast (any episode). 2. Share the screenshot to Instagram. Tag 2 friends who may be able to answer the questions as...

Yoga and meditation have been practiced for thousands of years, so there's far more to it than the core strength, flexibility, and mental focus promoted by popular culture. Being an absolute neophyte in both worlds, I wanted to learn from someone who is steeped in the traditions - but willing to explore outside the constraints of that tradition.  Susan Ashley Hunt is a spiritual teacher and Buddhi...

It's become accepted that climbers should be lifting weights if we want to maximize our athletic potential. But why exactly? We have lots of reasons, but these are our top 5. This Board Meeting is a little different. Since our board has grown, so should our Board Meetings. In this episode, rather than Nate, I'm talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. The format you've come to...

In this episode Nate and I sit down to answer a few questions submitted through our Instagram Story. Many of the questions were related, so we've tried to piece together a narrative of sorts that answers these questions. More coming! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective...

While I like to think that all of our discussions here are important, some are just plain bigger picture than others. This one falls into the bigger picture category.  Recorded live at the 2018 CWA Summit, the Women in Climbing discussion brought up many great points and offered several learning opportunities for everyone present. Special thanks to all of the panelists and to the CWA, particularly...

For most of you reading this, the truth is that the pros are better than you. Why? Are they special in some way? Some of them don't even "train"! How the hell did they get so good?  Nate and I sit down after recording several other episodes and drinking several beers, to discuss the top 5 reasons why the pros are so good. Some reasons you can use to improve your own climbing, some that just depend...

Dark Horse, Climber's Climber, Undercover Crusher - whatever you want to call it - today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it. If you don't closely follow the comp scene or deviate from the typical climbing news cycle, that is. But if you pay attention, you know and respect the name. I've been aware of Brian for quite some time, and got the chance to sit down with him and discuss his on and off 9 y...

Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol?  You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at  http://en-eva-lopez.blogspo...

Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset.  At Ayo's sug...

This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we g...

We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how.  I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercra...

In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries.  You can find Esther Smith at  http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/ You can find Eva Lopez at  http://en-e...

The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  To Recap: 5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late. 4. Getting stuck in bad beta.  3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire. 2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general. 1. Projecting in the wrong range.   You c...

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a  Pa...

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a  Pa...

Part 2 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a  Pa...

For today's Board Meeting, Nate and I sat down with Red River legend Dru Mack to discuss the top 5 most common pitfalls of redpointing. It's a complex process - one that we've all made our share of mistakes in. This conversation ended up being around 2.5 hours long, so I've decided to split it into 5 bite sized pieces over the next week.  You can find Dru on the instagram at  https://www.instagram...

In this episode I sit down with Episode 64 alum Trevor Ragan. If you haven't listened to Ep 64 yet... go do that now. We'll wait.  Trevor and I caught up after a TED X Talk he gave in Lander, to discuss the principles and theories behind motor learning. I quite selfishly gave him scenarios and examples using the drills we've created for our workshops and coaching, and asked how he might improve up...

Technically, this is Part 2 and 3. If you haven't listened to Part 1, Episode 88, you should do that.  In this episode I sit down with Jared at the CWA to discuss the 2nd and 3rd steps - strength and movement - in his Rock Rehab Pyramid - a system of preventing and rehabbing climbing injuries.   You can find the book, Climb Injury Free, on Dr. Vagy's website  HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like e...

Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage. Not only is she a hard working strength trainer, but she’s made some of the toughest choices there are to make in the face of adversity. With an identity wrapped in being a strong bodied, athletic woman, Jos was diagnosed with the gene mutation BRCA1, meaning that the likelihood of developing breast cancer was high. This left her with wha...

Fame and authenticity don’t always go hand in hand. We’d love to believe that in climbing they always do, but that just isn’t the case. As someone who makes their living in a very public way within the climbing industry, I’m hyper aware of my own authenticity, and I watch other public figures in our tiny sphere to see how they navigate. Because Sasha is at the top, I watch her closely. In this epi...

In this episode Nate and I break from the Top 5 format to have a simple discussion about how climbers are products of our environment. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a  Patron for as little as $3 a month. Fi...

My good friend and  Episode 16  guest Dru Mack stopped by during the International Climbers Festival in Lander to chat, and of course the conversation turned to climbing. He told me about a list that Jonathan Siegrist had created for him - a list that is a surefire way to make sure that Dru's development as a climber isn't lacking.  I needed to know more, so I sat down with Dru, Nate, and our frie...

Today's episode is a question and answer session from our Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD. On our final day the participants asked questions of our presenters, including Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, Neely Quinn from TrainingBeta, Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance, and Kelly Drager from the Canadian Climbing Team.  We don't twee...