The Firn Line

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report.  Storytelling is an integral part of human nature - and climbing and adventure stories are no exception.  There’s nothing better than sitting around a campfire on a crisp, desert night - listening to a friend share a story of adventure, perhaps a brush with danger, or a time...

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana - or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few.  But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska.  This temperate region, which encompasses the shared traditional land of...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway.  I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step , which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2.  Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his tenacity, grit and determination in the mountains...

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse.  From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, to the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers. But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psycho...

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there.  Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas.  Having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all. And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning , which comes out June 1st on Falco...

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes.  I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice.  Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond - always pushing himself to a higher standard, that...

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman.  I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity.  So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t .   Dammed If You Don't tells the story of a deeply-conf...

The Snow Coffin Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain. The Ghost Of Aconcagua Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnavigation and  ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled "ghost of Aconcagua" on her way out. Visitors In The Night Montana...

A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.   Links: The Devil's Thumb (AAJ) Mt. Burkett (Alpinist ) The Firn Line (Website) Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination Roasting

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor. Eddie grew up in different parts of the country.  As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski.  It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors. During his high school year...

Today’s episode is a story about adventure.  It’s a story about getting scared.   It’s a story of friendship and love.  It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes.  But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum.  Rather, It takes place in the mountains - in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchora...

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998.  My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing. Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali.  We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to b...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak .   I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman ’s excellent book, As Above, So Below .  His work is emotional and moody - but also uplifting and joyful at the same time.  If you’ve spent time in the mountains - or live for pure moments in nature with fr...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.   Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram. His early climbs in...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot . Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment.  It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away fr...

Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims. Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when he’s not putting out fires, both literally and figuratively, he’s part of a new generation of crushers in the ice mecca of Valdez and Thompson Pass, where some of the best ice climbing in North America exists. But last month, Ryan teamed up with ano...

A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020.  Stay safe and be well - Evan Music by Evan Phillips Support the show at Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination Roasting

The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and crumbly volcanoes, extend all the way from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon - all the way to Northern California.  And if you live in the Portland, OR area - there’s one Cascade peak that dominates the horizon - Wy’East or Mount...

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know legendary rock climber and big wall ace, Paul Gagner. Growing up in southern California in the late 60’s and early 70’s - Paul had a keen sense for adventure. This was fueled by summertime camping trips with his family, and a string of visits to National Parks. In fact, it was a fateful trip to Grand Teton National Park in his teens, that woul...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard. In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, an...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard. Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a vision...

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton. Growing up in a working class family on the outskirts of Lexington, KY - Burton was raised hearing the stories of his grandfather, who like many Kentuckians of times past, worked hard to make a living in the nearby coal mines of Harlan County. Although Burton would take a much different c...

On today’s episode of The Firn line, we’ll get to know Pacific Northwest-based alpinist Mallorie Estenson. Growing up in the shadows of the North Cascades, Mallorie participated in athletics as a kid, with an inclination toward the more adventurous side of life. Eventually, this led to an interest in climbing, and for the last three years, she’s been working as a mountain guide. But Mallorie’s int...

I first heard about Steve House in 1995 - when I was living at my family's cabin on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. I was 20 years old, working as a park rangers assistant. Besides work, there wasn’t much to do that summer, but chop wood, go for mind-numbing afternoon runs, and fish murky waters for salmon. Unfortunately for me, the mountains were hours away. But one thing I looked forward to was my mon...

Training for the mountains has come a long way - even from when I started out in the early 90’s. Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was the best training for climbing. While this is still true in a lot of ways - thinking has progressed - and a lot of that has to do with the emergence of UphillAthlete.com Founded by Scott Johnston and Steve House , Uphill Athlete has become a name synon...