Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your...

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy...

This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of...

Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst's analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more! This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boul...

Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most! In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall....

Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course correction...

In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing , Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience.  RUNDOWN 0:30 - Eric's Welcome! 4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips...

In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:40 - Recap of Episo...

In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers.  For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. In PART 1 (podcast #71) and this episode combined,  Eric coaches four climbers that cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time pro...

Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast! Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climbers of widely varying ability. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, his Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. The four climbers...

In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your futur...

"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in climbing, slow strength and endurance gains, waste time and energy, and potentially contribute to injury. This is a must-listen impactful podcast for anyone wanting to take their training — and climbing! — to the next level. S...

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and goin...

One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word "nuance" so often in my Training For Climbing podcasts! Warming up before training and climbing is one of those "minor things" that many people do hastily--or dismiss completely. Little do they know that th...

This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and send more quickly! Learn about the power of proprioception and "feel beta" (a coach Hörst secret...shush!), why it's vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of "punting", the benefits of engaging in active...

To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager! Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fears of falling, getting hurt, failure, embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown...can be torturous and paralyzing. To climb efficiently and with confidence, you need to be able to assess and manage fear...which is the subject of this pod...

This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it's 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training,...

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! Ther...

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time.  The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage...

Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART! So if you want to progress from good to great, then this podcast is for you! Learn 5 powerful strategies for climbing more efficiently, recovering more quickly, and leveling up your climbing. Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Roll up your sleeve to re...

Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days! Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags. SUPPORT THIS P...

There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do. Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise? In this podcas...

Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder! Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a pla...

The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there? As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performance — it's about human performance ! What does it take to achieve extreme success? What's the #1 thing holding most people back from...

What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy! Podcast Rundown 4:15 – Question: What advice do you have for returning to crimping after an A2 pulley injury? 7:35 – Question: What are your recommendations for incorporating some strength training in a my...