Couchfish

When you’re on the ascent of Mount Kinabalu , it can seem like time stands still. That whole one step forward, two steps back thing. Your guide says there is just ten minutes to go, but you’re sure your watch says that was 18 minutes ago. Or 48 minutes ago. Time takes on a whole new meaning—and not in a good way. Hammock out of shot. Photo: Sally Arnold . You might not know this, but in the shadow...

The official boat departure time from Monywa in Burma’s Sagaing Region was 4am (yes, ayem), so we got there at 3. A and I had spent the previous night exploring Monywa’s nightlife scene. As there was none (that we could find), 3am didn’t seem like a push. It was. Hello Monywa. Photo: Mark Ord . We were heading up the Chindwin River . How far we didn’t know, but as the boat started in Monywa ( map...

We’ve been lazing on Ko Libong for a few days when the kids ask, “Where’s next?” We’ve already been to see the dugongs, walked up and down the beach a bit and visited a nearby fishing village. They’re idle and looking for new distractions. Please do watch to the end to see cheeky Will get his just desserts. When I reply, “Ko Sukorn,” they both look at me blankly. “What does it have?” “Nothing.” “S...

People say they remember where they were when they heard that Lady Di died, or the 9/11 attacks. Me? Yes, I have those, but I also remember when I first watched Jaws . I didn’t get in the ocean for about a year after that. Years later, friends would roll their eyes—kind of like how a Great White does just before it delivers an underwater appendectomy—whenever I trotted out the Jaws excuse. Not a b...

When people want to dip their finger into the Mekong Delta from Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho or Can Tho are the first two off the rank. I say go further. Try  Sa Dec . “So it’s during the crossing of a branch of the Mekong, on the ferry that plies between Vinh Long and Sa Dec in the great plain of mud and rice in southern Cochin China. The Plain of the Birds.” So writes Marguerite Duras about the rive...

Phongsali is Laos’ northernmost province. Wedged between China’s soft belly and Vietnam’s northwest peaks. It is also where I escaped a robbery/murder attempt some years ago.  It was in the provincial capital ( map link ), that I chatted to an Adelaide–educated tourist police officer. He was writing out what he thought was a report about a backpacker’s lost bag—just for insurance purposes you know...

Close readers will have noticed I’ve spent more time in Nan than any other province so far on this trip. Why? Because Nan rocks . Not only is the countryside beautiful, but the people are super friendly and the food is great. I’ll be touching on all three of these in today’s final post on the province. My first stop is Nan’s central market for breakfast. I ride up planning just to grab a quick pla...

When you live in Indonesia’s most heaviest touristed destination, where is a decent diversion? If I’m happy to jump on a plane, Flores or Sumbawa are no brainers, but if I just want a weekend getaway bereft of crowds, where do I go? I go to Munduk ( map link ). And this is how I do it. Early bird gets the worm and nowhere is that truer, at least traffic–wise, than Bali. I pile the family into the...

I leave Nan extra early on a hired scooter, heading up Route 101 to Pua, then take a right onto Route 1256 at Pua. From there the ride is wild and undulating as the road leads up to Doi Phukha National Park . Except I’m not going to the park—well not yet, anyway. Once all of this was jungle. Photo: Stuart McDonald. Just shy of the park boundary a small sealed road runs off to the north. It tracks...

The “traveller fixer”. Many second–tier traveller towns in Cambodia used to have them. Mr Leng in Banlung and Mr T in Stung Treng were near legends on the traveller trail back in the day. Guys who could arrange anything—for a fee. Smooth operators, with excellent English and a penchant for knowing just what travellers wanted. So it was, in Takeo , a scratch of a town about 75 kilometres south of P...

Phrae ( map link ) sits out of sight and out of mind for many. North of the railway to Chiang Mai, the city attracts few foreigners—I’m perhaps the only one in town. This, despite a rich and varied history and a lip–smacking culinary scene. All the more reason to visit, I think. Founded in the eighth century, the isolation that keeps tourists away also assisted Phrae’s relatively long period of in...

I’m in Mai Chau, a few hours west of Hanoi when I post a photo of lush rice fields in the valley on my Instagram account. The rain has eased, but the mist is still entangled with the peaks ringing the valley. It is lovely. This drone video really captures the beauty of the terraces. Not long later I post the photo, I receive a message from a follower on Instagram. Am I in Pu Luong? I’ve never hear...

With a couple of exceptions, the further east in Indonesia you go, the better it gets. One of the places out east that is closest to my heart is a blip of an island off the west coast of Alor called Kepa. Sunset at Kepa. Photo: Stuart McDonald. We’ve been there a few times—we rent a large but basic wooden house on the cliff. When I say basic, I mean if you want hot water you heat it up in black ru...

While I love getting around by scooter, the downside is needing to take the bike back. I rise early, grab a coffee and jump back on two wheels, retracing my route south to Sukhothai .  Despite having ridden in Thailand for years, the frosty early-morning air never fails to startle. On the upside few are as silly as me to be out at this hour, and Route 1113 is devoid of traffic for almost the entir...

What is a  Couchfish Diversion ? Sometimes you’re in a well-travelled spot and you're looking for something a bit different. Perhaps just for a night, perhaps for 10 nights ... Couchfish Diversion is all about this. Each Tuesday at 5pm GMT+8 I’ll send paid and free subscribers to Couchfish a piece that recommends a diversion in a popular Southeast Asian spot. Let's gets diverted! I wake up in Phno...

Set towards the centre of Thailand’s north, you’ll find Sukhothai ( map link ). From the Sanskrit, Sukhothai translates as “dawn of happiness”. Yet it could just as easily be “dawn of the nation” given the pivotal historical role it played. The Kingdom of Sukhothai ruled for a short period (1238–1438) but it got plenty done in that short spell. Under the reign of King Ramkhaemhaeng (reigned 1279-1...

“Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you were goin all the way.” Don’t listen to Captain Willard. So says Captain Willard at a pivotal moment in Apocalypse Now . He and a crew member had got off their boat to look for mangoes and were almost attacked by a tiger for their efforts.  While I love mangoes, I’m not sure I’d risk a tiger attack over one. That said, I’m always one...

Route 1090 runs south from Mae Sot to the isolated, mostly Karen, town of Umphang. The name “Death Highway” dates back to the 1980s. At that time, opium cultivation—and the security issues that come with it—was common. Opium is still grown in Tak province, but thanks to crop substitution work, has been reduced by some 80% . The days of seeing mountain ridges shimmering with poppy fields are gone....

As this is the first issue of Couchfish Diversion , a quick word on what it is. Sometimes you’re in a well travelled spot and you're looking for something a bit different. Perhaps just for a night, perhaps for 10 nights ... Couchfish Diversion is all about this. Each Tuesday at 5pm GMT+8 I’ll send paid and free subscribers to Couchfish a piece that takes a popular spot in Southeast Asia and recomm...