Conversation with a chef

Today I’m talking to Bartek (Bert) Glinka & Brendan D’Amelio at Uncle’s Smallgoods. Bert and Brendan are friends, brothers-in-law and the charcuterie makers supplying many Melbourne cult institutions. You’ll find their pastrami at places like Hector's Deli, Nico's and Hugo's and their bacon is fried in cafes like ST ALi, Rustica, and Earl Canteen. Bert and Brendan’s smallgoods journey started when...

I've had a few chats with Matti Fallon over the years and they have always been good ones, so when he suggested a catch-up over lunch, it was a hard yes from me. We sat by the front window of Mr Vincenzo's with Mornington Park and Port Phillip Bay across the road and we feasted: stracciatella, artichokes, walnut vinaigrette and peas, snapper crudo, zucchini flowers, ricotta filling and whipped avo...

Baba’s Deli is lovely. Owners Max and Aleesha have nailed what it means to offer excellent hospitality: friendly service, excellent sandwiches and $3 coffee. While getting chefs in to make sandwiches wasn’t the original plan, it has worked out well for everyone, with friends, Daniel and Luke leaving stressful restaurant jobs to have fun every day wrangling the likes of Mama’s Vodka, the chicken sc...

Zero95 Alphington was still being set up when I arrived to talk to Executive chef Daniel Mastramico and he gave me a quick tour of the brand-new pizza and gelato venue, There’s a gleaming Marana oven for the pizzas, a mural on the cool room wall by TD Illustrations, and photos in the dining room of Daniel’s parents’ engagement party 52 years ago. With seating for 80 inside and 40 outside overlooki...

Tracey Lister is a Melbourne-born chef with more than 30 years of experience in the hospitality industry, both in Australia and Vietnam. She is also the author of four cookbooks (KOTO: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam (2008), Vietnamese Street Food (2011), Real Vietnamese Cooking (2014) and Made in Vietnam (2017)) and she is the owner of Brunswick Kitchen cookery school. When I went in to talk w...

Ben is the award-winning chef and owner of renowned restaurant Attica, where his innovative, boundary-pushing cuisine has earned him global acclaim. Known for his deep connection to sustainable and native ingredients and a commitment to excellence, Ben's culinary vision goes beyond the plate. His book, Uses for Obsession offers a vulnerable, humorous, and hard-hitting exploration of his journey, a...

Circl is a wine-centric restaurant led by a team of friends and hospitality experts in Punch Lane in Melbourne's CBD. Unique in concept, with an impressive 1,500-bottle wine list and strong 150+ by-the-glass offering, Circl wants diners to try some of the world’s most exciting and up-and-coming wines, alongside European-inspired food with Scandinavian finesse. I went in to chat to Executive Chef E...

Originally from Adelaide, Chris Rendell grew up in Melbourne and started chef life as an apprentice under Robert Castellani at Carmine’s before heading to Sydney and working for Neil Perry at the Rock Pool Group’s Star Grill and then at Christine Manfield’s iconic The Paramount in Potts Point. After four years in London working with David Thompson, as well as at Sugar Club, The Grocer of Elgin and...

Santiago Sansone is one of 10 talented young chefs who have been selected for the 2024 Pacific Region S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition. Santiago works as Chef de Partie at the Four Seasons in Sydney, and he was put forward for the competition by the Executive chef. Born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Santiago grew up watching his grandparents cooking every day, preparing dishes for celebra...

#264 Annie Smithers | Kitchen Sentimental by Jo Rittey

Walking up Canning Street to The Wine Corner Store on a sunny day is joyous. There are people sitting at outside tables and lounging on the grass strip in the middle of the road with bottles of wine and snacks, catching up with friends and enjoying the tease of a possible early spring. It's a vibe. Steven "Stevie" Mifsud-Ellul opened  The Wine Corner Store  back in 2016 with a concept of mirroring...

#263 Matilde Razzoli | Elio's Place by Jo Rittey

When I first met Aleksis Kalnins, I was writing a First Look story for Broadsheet about Molli. It was the afternoon of the soft opening and Aleks took me on a super fast tour of the kitchen, restaurant and up to the rooftop to admire the raised garden beds. He talked about the food he liked to cook and his vision for the restaurant and I knew I had to come back and hear more once Molli was up and...

The Tiffy Group is known for its imaginative venues which transcend the ordinary. Ryan Spurrell is Executive chef for and so oversees the group’s Goldilocks Rooftop Bar, House of Correction, Lost Boys, The Clarendon and latest Snow White inspired beauty, Mirror Mirror Rooftop Lounge. I spoke to Ryan in The Clarendon which has recently been renovated and is a really beautiful makeover of the great...

I was lucky enough to be invited to stay at Oakwood Premier in Southbank, Melbourne for two nights. We stayed on the 37th floor in a glorious one bedroom apartment with a view out across the river and the city to the Richmond, Kew and even a glimpse of the Dandenongs. Everything looks different from so high up and I loved taking in the lights of the city by night and then watching the sun rise up...

When I was asked whether I would like to try Gamze Smokehouse’s Gold Bacon and chat to Brendan Gamze about the process behind it as well as the philosophy behind the family owned and operated Smokehouse, I was thrilled. Gamze Smokehouse was started by Felix Gamze, Brendan’s father, who migrated to Australia with his parents as a boy, went to school before starting an apprenticeship in butchery. Fe...

I met Orlando Marzo when I was writing about Joe Vargetto’s Bianchetto and Orlando was curating the drinks list. Orlando is passionate about what he does and a great storyteller. When I ran into him again at the Little Food Market recently and he suggested catching up to tell me his story and take me through some of the Loro drinks, I said, no way. Are you kidding? A world class bartender and winn...

Jess Liemantara, also known as Jess Lemon, is a pastry chef, self-published author and now Head of Innovation and Development at Ned’s Bakes. Jess has graced the MasterChef kitchen three times, first making waves in 2018 as the youngest contestant ever to compete and earning a spot in the top four, then in 2020 for Season 12 – Back to Win and then in MasterChef’s Dessert Masters where she finished...

Some of Australia’s best chefs (and quite a few friends of the podcast) are heading north for a feast in the tropics and it’s all thanks to chef Spencer Patrick and his Taste Port Douglas. Founder and culinary director of Chef-hatted Harrisons in the Sheraton Grand Mirage in Port Douglas, Spencer started his career in the UK where he was head chef at three of Marco Pierre White’s restaurants in Lo...

What a wild and impressive ride of a career. When I went in to chat to Sunny Gilbert at the Hofbrauhaus, I did not expect to hear about cooking whole crocodiles in a bread oven in China. A career as a chef can certainly take you places. Sunny hadn’t planned on being a chef, but once he got into a kitchen as a kitchenhand, he was quickly hooked, loving the adrenalin rush of service and wanting to p...

Grace Loke is a PhD student at RMIT in Melbourne and is co-lead in a team of researchers exploring the role of our sensory perception in the way we enjoy eating. More specifically, they are looking at the reasons why astronauts report meals taste bland in space and as a result are failing to eat their normal nutritional intake. Previous research has shown that aroma plays a large role in how we pe...

A couple of months ago I ate at Locavore Studio and it was glorious. For a start, the dining room is beautiful with its cathedral ceiling and rich and textural nature mural by local graphic artists Sonsie Studios. Head chef Ryan Lynch is putting up delicious dishes that reflect the seasons and the region. Most memorable was the mushroom anolini that was like a warm hug in its cosy, savoury goodnes...

Andrea Rigodanza is an Italian chef from Vicenza where he learnt how to cook in his family's restaurant. After a short apprenticeship in a 3 Michelin restaurant, he decided to move to Sydney and eventually on to Melbourne. Andrea has been in Australia for more than 8 years and last year decided to start his own business making handmade gnocchi for restaurants around Victoria. Initially he did this...

I love it when people get in touch with me and suggest chefs to talk to. Robert, a retired chef got in touch with me and suggested Bottarga as a local gem with a solid chef. Chef Federico Bizzaro and his partner and wine expert Somi Paremanee opened Bottarga in 2021 and when I read more about the restaurant, I became increasingly fascinated. Dani Valent had a similar experience to me when someone...

Diana Desensi is an incredible chef and a lovely person. I have heard her name so often from other chefs I have spoken to who hold her in high esteem, and it was so refreshing to sit down with her and hear how highly she regards the chefs that she has worked for and is now working for. Diana lived and breathed food and fostered a love for cooking from an early age, growing up with a Nonno and a No...