Cant Not

Episode 89, In conversation with Martina of the @archivedotcom , an archive dedicated to sourcing exclusively Phoebe Philo Celine. We get into how Phoebe Philo reshaped fashion in the 2010s, the cult following of Philo era Celine, why there is a continued demand, the moment she fell in love with the brand and designer herself, a connection between women wearing old Celine, her favourite Celine sho...

In conversation with Mina Alyeshmerni of @Maimoun_store on why independent retail is punk, pushing against traditional fashion hierarchies, Barney’s informing how she could operate in fashion, the dot com boom and when we started shopping online, supporting young growing designers and how this changes the system, championing diverse POV’s, what goes into a $500 top, defining good design, what sets...

In conversation with Ondine on how her experience working on design teams at fashion houses led to collecting and selling designer vintage, listening to what designers have to say, why she chooses the designers she collects, Rick Owens and the world he creates, researching the historical context of archives and antiques, what makes an archive piece hold its value, her holy grail, the current state...

Listen to the full episode on Patreon and gain access to all episodes, cant not map, and editing the doom scroll newsletter <3 Episode 84 In conversation with Abby of @sustainablefashinofriend on how a career in Sustainability opened her eyes to what was really going on in the fashion industry — and motivated her to start sharing her discoveries, why brands aren’t being called out in the media,...

In conversation with Spasia of @fivedotsvintage on the influence of Manolo Blahnik in pop culture and the eternal shoe, seeing her first pair of designer shoes in her 20s after leaving her home country, how our shoes define us emotionally and aesthetically, how the kitten heel made its way back into our lives after the high heels of the 2010s, the sex appeal of a slingback, most requested shoes, t...

In conversation with Gisel of @suitoflights , on how her focus on natural materials started from her culture, working on the corporate side of fashion and how this resulted in a shift to vintage, bringing awareness to the synthetic fabric commonly used in clothes and how they effect us and the environment, the lifespan of synthetic vs natural fabrics, choosing natural materials over designer label...

In conversation with fashion photographer Yasmine Diba on what brought her to photography, the influences of Tumblr and David Lynch, the many trends in photography existing at once, AI, moving from Film to Digital, the teenage spirit, how there is nothing cooler than doing you, the over accessibility to coolness, teenage bedrooms and capturing your spaces, French new wave cinema, the "lived i...

I am incredibly honoured to celebrate 80 episodes with these fantastic women who teach me a thing or two about this niche part of fashion history that starts with men in a pajama and ends with women in trousers. In conversation with Janine D'agati and Hannah Schiff, vintage fashion collectors, historians and authors of 'From Sleepwear to Sportswear, How Beach Pajama's Reshaped Women&#3...

In conversation with @madalynnewellking on what actually happened to her account, the effects of loosing everything you built online, how supportive the vintage community is, expanding offline, what it takes to start your own business, Madalyn fully therapises me through my existential freelance creative crisis, the skinny jean and where we are at on the denim circuit, how eBay is still our favour...

In conversation with Alejandro of @y2kbags on why y2k was such a pinnacle time for it bags, the little bitch bag, securing the IG handle, growing up with the coach patchwork tote, pocketbook parties for moms, the it bags of today, Kate moss and the birth of the Balenciaga city bag, Nikki Hilton’s bag collection, hot takes on the most underrated and overrated bags, what bag to invest in today, bag...

I n conversation with @addictedtorags  on the historic evolution of the plain t-shirt to the graphic tee. The transition of tees from underwear to outerwear. T-shirt activism and contextualising the history behind the clenched fist graphic. Getting into your own niche. What deems a Tee to be rare. The recent resurgence of the ironic slogan tee and the contemporary T-shirt makers ripping off the vi...

In conversation with Lili of @e.u.n.o.i.a.a on creating a sustainable brand at a luxury level, the green initiatives Eunoiaa takes from manufacturing to delivery, 3d printing porcelain into pearls, thinking about the final stages in a garment’s life - will it biodegrade, will It be disposed properly? LVMH headstock fabrics, embracing your feminine energy, baby steps for big brands, the need to ele...

In conversation with Alexis of Tab Vintage on Elsa Schiaparelli and Madam Gris, the spice girls influence, how she pivoted her career to vintage, selling qvc style on instagram live during the pandemic, becoming the special occasion vintage shopping destination, doing the research and solving fashion mysteries, the characters you meet through sourcing, when Tab Vintage graced the Met Gala, what it...

In conversation with the incredible Fiona of London's legendary vintage store Rellik  growing up in Australia in the 70s and using patterns to make her own clothes, going to Central Saint Martins in the 80s, her introduction to Portobello Market and starting her own stall in 1995, at that time selling young upcoming designers clothes along with vintage and upcycling, the fashion buyers and des...

In conversation with Michael of Toots Vintage on getting the slinky look for less, working at Beacons closet in NYC during its prime, the secret 250 piece Helmut Lang collector behind Toots, the unpredictability of social media and having roots IRL, the underrated designer Sue Wong, early 00s Victorias Secret silk, when corporate fast fashion heads follow you, being an independent business owner a...

Episode 67. In conversation with Jasmine of Piracy Vintage , on how she got into starting her Athens based vintage store, discovering the incredible designs of Kostas Murkudis who used to work for Helmut Lang before starting his own label in the 90s, her obsession with Plein Sud, trends and the return of the Isabelle Marant Bekett sneaker wedge, the culture in Greece around vintage and the style i...

In conversation with Jennie Walker of The Jennie Walker Archive , on acquiring the largest collection of vintage Moschino in the U.S., if the secondhand industry actually made a difference in the sustainability of the fashion industry, the Moschino skirt that started it all and her journey to learn as much as possible about the designer, from shopping consignment as a child to opening her first co...

In conversation with Christopher of Filter Store in Adelaide Australia, on discovering and shopping Japanese designers at a young age, how the financing of his garment research lead to Filter Store, corporate marketing vs independent POVs, the thought behind the IG captions, fashion authorities and knowing the unknowable, appreciating fabrics and unique design, rediscovering forgotten designers of...

In conversation with David of Pineapple Factory Gallery on New York in the 90s and buying Margiela at Century 21, pre-internet vintage dealing, personal style, avoiding trends, the change of how design teams source vintage, the rise of fakes and tricks of buying online, favourite runway shows, the future of fashion and so much more <3 Listen to the full episode and support this podcast on patre...

In conversation with Ali of Cut Thwice , the second hand designer search tool, on how vital independent resellers are to the ecosystem of resale, bringing together the grailed and depop consumers, shipping internationally via proxies, indie marketing in the reselling community, the intelegence and community behind designer resale, flipping mentality within consumers, how resale has influenced cont...

Episode 60, in conversation with  Sophie Strauss , stylist for regular people, on the Tumblr and fashion blog era, street style photography before influencers, the difference between fashion and style, ways to avoid impulse shopping, her personal style journey, nurturing clients relationships to their closets, styling proportions, encouraging secondhand and ethical shopping options, fast fashion's...

In conversation with Claudia of @rewindvintageaffairs  on the origins of Rewind, early Ebay days and travelling across the globe for pieces, the uncertainty of the fashion industry, how the second hand fashion client has changed, Chanel minaudieres, vintage fashion cycles and what influences vintage trends, secondhand shopping advice, being a shoe addict, who to collect for future vintage and so m...

In conversation with Miles Porton of www.juniorGaultier.com  and @english_rake  on revisiting the Jean Paul Gaultier Jeans and Junior lines of the 80s and 90s, watching Gaultier on Euro Trash, challenging gender norms and silhouettes, the influences and context behind certain pieces and collections, wearing what you like, our thoughts on design rereleases, ideas for a future Gaultier collaborator,...

In conversation with Alessia of Milan based @shop_the_stor y on growing up with a mother dressed in Yohji Yamamoto, dancing in Margiela throughout her club era, rewarding herself with Miu Miu shoes during Uni, Dries Van Noten’s honourable exit from fashion, her love for Come Des Garcons,  Miuccia Prada referencing the past the right way, Luxury brands cutting off their traditional clientele, the c...

In conversation with Hannah of Haut Corporation on creating a space for clothes to be appreciated, how vintage has influenced contemporary markets, the Westwood idea of working with what you’ve got, being an OG eBay seller, her store in the front night club in the back days, collaborating with @secondlifemarketsuk and the community they’ve built, her love for markets of all kinds, our stance on in...