Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990’s, and will tell the sto...

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance Authored by Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski, Judyta Wyciślik, and Piotr Kaczka; published in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health in May, 2021.   They’ll ex...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:   Current Approaches on Warming up for Sports Performance: A Critical Review Authored by Maria Helena Gil MD, Henrique P. Neiva PhD, António C. Sousa MD, Mário C. Marques PhD, and Daniel A. Marinho PhD; published in the Streng...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple papers including: Use of ‘chalk’ in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth? Authored by François-Xavier Li, S. Margetts and I. Fowler; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences in July, 2001. & Active...

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers Authored by David Giles, Kimberly Barnes, Nicola Taylor, Corinna Chidley, Joel Chidley, James Mitchell, Oliver Torr,...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action Authored by Rob Gray; published in Current Directions in Psychological Science in June, 2011. They’ll discuss the difference between focusing attention internally or externally, and h...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gray; published in the International Review of Sport and Exercise Psychology in December, 2013.   They’ll explain the idea of embodied perception in sport - the theory that how we see our environment is...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance Authored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbigniew Szygula, and Ralph Beneke; published in Fronti...

In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology...

In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial Authored by Serhii Kozin, Marian Cretu, Zhanneta Kozina, Andrii Chernozub, Olena Ryepko, Tetiana Shepelenko, Iryna S...

In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength Authored by Dave Giles, Oliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, and Stephen Atkins; published in The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research in Januar...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance. Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery By: Nick Draper, David Giles, Nicola Taylor, Laurent Vigouroux, V...

For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum episode we look at a little more of the complete story by examining the paper: Female excellence in rock climbing likely has an evolutionary origin Published by Collin Carrol in Current Research in Phy...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement By: Nick Draper, David Gile...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Beall’s List of Potential Predatory Journals and Publishers How to (seriously) read a scientific paper by Elisabeth Pain; published on Science; March 21, 2016. Ten simpl...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.  He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more — and breaks down how we should be looking at all this data as climbers.   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Scientists rise up against statistical significance by Valentin Amr...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1.  They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorporating into their own coaching and training going forward.   Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount...

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whet...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Position Stand: Safety and Efficacy of Creatine Supplementation in Exercise, Sport, and Medicine authored by Richard B. Kreider, Douglas S. Kalman, Jose Antonio, Tim N. Ziegenfuss, Robert Wildman, Rick Colli...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Vereide, Elias Olsen, and Vidar Andersen; published in PLOS ONE in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whe...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial authored by Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Dominik Saul, Elizabeth J Atkinson, Arndt F. Shilling, and Volker Schoffl; published in Scientific Reports in 2021. They’ll attempt to determine whether or no...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored by Keith Baar, published in Sports Medicine (Springer Nature) in 2017. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s much we can do to help prevent tendon injuries and speed up recovery time when...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the Shoulder: an Magnetic Resonance Imaging Study of 31 Climbers authored by Silvan Beeler, MD, Torten Pastor, MD, Benjamin Fritz, MD, Lukas Filli, MD, Andreas Schweizer, MD, and Karl Weiser, MD; published...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Performance in Rock Climbing authored by Nick Draper, Simon Brent, Gavin Blackwell, and Chris Hodgson; published in the International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport in 2009. They’ll attempt to...

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community: Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An Attempt to Clarify Previous Caveats authored by Helmi Chaabene, David Behm, Yassine Negra, and Urs Granacher; published in Frontiers in Physiology in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not st...